Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

Ah some sram come with torx now, swear i fitted one guys setup (sram red?) that had alloy torx caliper bolts. No thanks!
Regular shimano ones every shop has a pot full of then, chunky but pretty hard to beat (too chunky for some setups).

Also +1 to regular mtb caliper on road lever setups. Have dealt with several botched flat mount to is or pm mount frames recently, all of them an utter pita.
Shimano says it doesn't work, but it does just fine.
Sent one guy out with older Ultegra levers and mt200/400 calipers as he just wanted the cheapest thing that worked, bet they don't suffer cracked pistons like a lot of the road calipers do. Pads are cheaper too

SRAM Red come with Ti Torx head bolts. They're sized quite small too, to the point where if you use Wera HF Torx allen wrenches it's almost impossible to get good engagement.

Magura MT range uses torx for calliper bolts and leaver clamps

I have just got my first ever disc brakes bike, a Marin Four Corners with TRP Spyre mechanical 160mm brakes.

Each side of each caliper has a 3mm allen key port for adjusting the pads in and out. Presumably these are used to centre the pads on the rotor and adjust the lever pull?

One of them, on the rear caliper will not turn, either way, even with a near worryingly large amount of torque. The other three turn effortlessly.

Any idea what might be up with it?

Any idea what might be up with it?

I had one like this. I think it’s too much threadlock from the factory - could try heating it up either by dragging it for a few steep descents then try again or tip of a soldering iron etc.

I had one like this. I think it’s too much threadlock from the factory.

It is, make sure the 3mm Allen keys is not worn, snug in the bolt, and try and turn till a loud crack happened.

Cool.

I've ordered a Park Tool T Shaped hex wrench and will give it the beans with that, when it arrives.

Seems a common issue, from a bit of Googling.

Good to know that I'm not going to snap a part, just the thread lock.

Try and get some heat in to it. Even blue threadlock can create a serious bond if it's slapped on liberally. If you round the bolt you are bit scuppered as one side of the brake becomes non-adjustable.

As long it’s flat and not ball-end, you’ll be fine.

Only a major issues If ridden for ages since news without adjustments from the build.

Try and get some heat in to it

Hairdryer? I don't have a soldering iron. I do have a cook's blowtorch...

As long it’s flat and not ball-end, you’ll be fine.

I think the long end is ball, not flat. Doh.

I do have a cook's blowtorch...

If you have a good but sacrificial Allen key, stick that in, heat with blowtorch, then oven gloves.

I assume this is the inner one? You'll have better access if you remove the wheel then you should then be able to use a regular Allen key.

If you’re talking about thr black one with a big blue resin top, then the short end is long to fit inside, which is better as you get more leverage with it.

I need to shorten the hose of my new Shimano brakes and I will presumably need to do a bleed afterwards. I still have a bottle of Magura Royal Blood which is also mineral oil, if I'm not mistaken, so should in theory work? Is it just a different colourant or should I get a bottle of the Shimano stuff too?

Depends on your skill and the type of brake. You might not have to re-bleed.

They're Shimano BL/BR-M675, but I'd rather just have the stuff around anyway because I'll inevitably cock up if I don't. Don't have great confidence in my ability with hydraulics to begin with.

On that note, I have a set of Magura Louise + bleeding kit + mineral oil (if I can't reuse it) + some organic pads anyone can have for postage costs, should be around €15. They lose braking power over time, I bought them as NOS so probably due to my cackhandedness.

Right, reading this I think I'll just order a bottle of the Shimano oil to avoid issues.

So the last stages if my build has me swearing. Force CX1 levers, new sram hose kits on both and new hope rx4 calipers. I've followed Hope's protocol, srams protocol, wound the reach adjust out and still problems.

The front leaks out of the small vent hole on top if bladder cap if I try to do a final pressuring. Bladder seal seems fine and is seated properly.

The rear system wont let me put any fluid in. Feels like a fill the caliper with the caliper end syringe and nothing else goes in. I can't push through the fluid to lever.

Any suggestions other than admit defeat and take to shop??

Many thanks.

Andy

I’ve got to replace a broken promax solve hydro lever on a friends bike. Can’t get the replacement lever separate and a full setup is over £50. Doesn’t mind if the levers mismatch so what is a cheap go to hydro lever for flat bar and mineral oil?

Get a MT200, RRP £29.99.

Done. MTB stuff isn’t my forte.

Thanks all for the various pad and squeal advice. Pads sanded, wheels are now much more quiet and long term replacement pads are in the post. UTFS FTW.

Does anyone have a shimano hydraulic bleed bucket I could borrow for a day?
My front brake is getting a little spongey and I want to see if I can get some air out of the system.

I'm based in Se27 and commute to E15.

Cheers
Thomas

You can borrow mine if you like, I'm in N1

Amac090 that's wonderful, thank you!!
I'll PM later,

cheers,
Thomas