Turbo Trainer Advice

I’d go for one that has smart resistance control, makes it a bit more interesting (Zwift/Erg workouts)

After the advice on here, i've been calibrating before every ride. and it's pretty consistent. Sometimes I'm lazy and calibrate it without warming up, today I did it before, and then after, to compare, and the calibration number was very different - and the ride felt a lot harder (I did also get somewhat drunk the day before, so could have also been me)

I have a Kinetic Road Machine Smart 2 tire on trainer. My typical calibration number, when cold is around 1.60 - after warmup today it was 1.70

What I can't seem to find is what that number really means - I don't want to cheat the stats, ultimately I'm only cheating myself - but the control freak part of me wants to be able to blame the calibration if I have a tougher ride. So if I want to know if a higher number is harder, and if it's a linear scale, does a 5% higher calibration number mean I have to put in 5% more watts?

The idea of the calibration is to get the same level of resistance for each ride. Yes, calibrating cold/warm are going to be different values that's why you should calibrate after a standard warmup. If it's way off you can calibrate to the same value but adjusting the tyre clamp pressure, assuming it's the same as the Computrainer calibration. The actual difference is only a few percent but this becomes noticeable when you're doing an extra 10W at your supposed threshold or your VO2s are all 15W harder, etc.

https://support.kurtkinetic.com/hc/en-us/articles/206955736-How-do-I-get-the-best-calibration-

Does it matter much in a wahoo? I don't think I ever bothered to calibrate after it's warm, either I do it before I start or if I didn't move the bike since last time just ride as it is.

Probably doesn't matter, as long as you're consistent. Either always cold, or always after a specific amount of warmup.

My protocol: TrainerRoad ramp test every 4 to 6 weeks, do my standard BC 20 minute warmup, calibrate the Kickr then do the test. I don't calibrate outside of that.

Having measured with PM pedals, crank + Kickr at the same time over several workouts, the Kickr reads about 10% higher (so easier on you) for the first 20 to 30 mins of a workout. The pedals and crank were consistent throughout, 30 to 40 mins in they all line up.

I always use the Kickr for power indoors, as a result of my testing I used to bump my workouts up 10% for the first half, but eventually forgot about it and just rode them as is. I train at 7am straight out of bed so easing into Vo2 max ain't a bad thing really.

It will matter less with direct drive turbos but how much less I can't say as the calibration values are essentially hidden.

Agreed it probably doesn't matter - I do about a 15 minute warmup before main sets start so i just quickly pause and calibrate each time before the real pain begins. I'm sure it's more a mental thing than anything else that I'm not above or below what it 'should' feel like.

Makes sense, always thought it was me starting strong and fading.

That Honeywell fan is pretty good. Just hooked it up to an Eve smart plug so that I can turn it on when I’ve warmed up. clever.gif

https://photos.app.goo.gl/tYm5vhRATeR2VdpX8

those are pretty pricey no?

TrainerRoad keeps losing the bluetooth connection to my Wahoo cadence sensor but not the connection to my Kickr.

Kickr and bike are right next to PC and the cadence sensor had a new battery recently.

Might using an ANT+ dongle be more reliable than bluetooth?

I've got a Cyclops Fluid2 I'm selling. Not smart in anyway, but more than functional and cheaper if you're still looking.

Tried a new battery in the tickr?

The controllable ones can be.
Facebay seems to be fairly well stocked with turbos that people are starting to get rid of after lockdown.
Kurt kinetic rock and roll with bluetooth for £90 close to me, for example.

Recently, I can't believe it's gone flat already and when it is connected TrainerRoad is saying it has 80% battery.

I have a weird computer setup with a PC in the cellar and a screen in the living room above as well as in the cellar, but I can only have one bluetooth dongle, which I'd rather have in the living room. So an ANT+ dongle would help anyway as long as everything connected.

I might just order one and try it but I was wondering if generally ANT+ connections are more reliable than bluetooth. Bluetooth is shit, so I imagine that wouldn't be hard...

Facebay seems to be fairly well stocked with turbos that people are starting to get rid of after lockdown.

They'll be pissed when the second wave comes.

Or at least when the 60 days of summer rain descents as soon as the pubs open.

Ant+ is a lot more consistent IMO.

I might just order one and try it but I was wondering if generally ANT+ connections are more reliable than bluetooth. Bluetooth is shit, so I imagine that wouldn't be hard...

I lol’d. ANT+ is extremely limited in comparison to BLE, shorter range, lower bandwidth and less able to deal with interference from other radios. Your problems likely stem from range and interference, do you have a lot of devices with WiFi in your flat?

Fuck ant+ and garmin

@Fox get mesh wifi

I've already got a Ubiquiti access point thingy, no WiFi problems here (and no Garmin products either)!

But Wahoo sensors/my Kickr don't connect to WiFi anyway...

do you have a lot of devices with WiFi in your flat?

Shed loads, but it was doing this when the bluetooth sensor was in the PC next to the turbo so I don't think it can be range. I know ANT+ is generally less good but I'm happy to run a USB cable to right by the turbo to put the ANT+ sensor in.

I've ordered one and I'm going to give it a go anyway as my bluetooth headphones dropping out in the flat when the bluetooth dongle is plugged into the PC in the cellar is annoying me. For less than £20 it seems worth a go.

Bluetooth does frustrate me generally. I wish the range was better and it was possible to use more than one chip at a time...

Just get a wired cadence sensor no?