Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

Hahaha! First go!!

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After 4 flawless years my etap started behaving weirdly on a ride today. When mid-cassette and shifting down a gear it occasionally just straight up to the biggest sprocket. And then towards the end of the ride it was phantom shifting down from the big ring to the little ring. The batteries lights are all showing green. Very annoying. Anyone else experienced this?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=26uIPA7IWFs

Anyone got Bauke's number?

555-7446266

anyone had a similar issue with a mavix id360 and xdr freehub? Posted on behalf of a guy in my office... He's having an issue fitting 12sp SRAM casette to his mavic id360 hub. he has followed the instructions to install the XDR freehub body (supposedly) but the QR axle doesnt seem to protrude far enough out of the drive side - meaning the lockring rubs on the frame when the QR is tightened. I have a feeling he is missing some sort of spacer - or the end cap is wrong? thoughts appreciated.. i am sure it is super simple

I mean, that's definitely wrong. Are the QR end caps specific to a side? ie. has he put the NDS one in the DS?

Did he put a spacer behind the cassette that isn't needed for 12s?

https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Mavic/XDR-ID360-Freehub-Body/LHU0

This XDR freehub body for Mavic looks totally different
"For riders running a wheelset featuring a Mavic Instant Drive 360 rear hub, the XDR ID360 Freehub Body allows conversion to run a SRAM AXS 12-speed road cassette."

This looks the same though. WTF is AXS?
https://www.bike24.com/p2192892.html

Just put anything in the bin with Mavic, SRAM or 12spd on it. Fixed.

I've had similar issue with xdr freehub rubbing on dropouts. The reason is a an end cap assembly

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no spacer behind cassette and the end caps are the same as he was running on ultegra 6800....

thanks for replies - really appreciate it

Saw that in the instructions but if it was left in, it'd move the end cap further out not further in, right? It also didn't look like it was in the built photos.

Is it an older model of this hub perhaps? One that's not 12spd compatible?

Is it definitely XDR (road) and not XD (mtb)?

Argh, If I could mess with it I'm sure I could work out what's going on. Could it be the cassette binding on the freehub body? How much gap can you see behind it? Is it right up against the little blocky bits?

I'm sure I see cap flanges on your photo. That part must not be there

So I have finally moved to Di2 and I am now wondering what the fuss is all about.

First of all, there are e-tubes everywhere so you do need to run cables all around.
Secondly, I don't feel that the response time is faster that mechanical cables or more precise.

All in, very underwhelmed by having spend 50% more on a electronic groupset that, to me, does not fix a problem that did not exist.

I feel like a mug!

What am I missing??

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I feel like a mug!

you didnt have to buy a Di2 groupset to prove that!? (etc)

What am I missing??

eTap.

You'll appreciate it in a couple of weeks when you don't have cable stretch, sluggish shifting.

Should give you better shifting under load too.

I didn't really notice any real reaction advantage. Also climbing shifters, sprint shifters etc are nice.

Anyone here using (AXS) etap on drops with clics or blips? I have an incoming 1x12 race bike and I think some located in the sprint position will be very useful but not sure which to go for

I did 90km at the weekend and on 3 occasions, the gears got "confused" and the front derailleur changed to the other chainring.

The friend I was riding with told me that was because of the syncro shift so I also need to disable that.

I rode a mechanical R8000 set up with an Oversized Pulley cage and, to me, that was very sharp & precise.

What am I missing??

£500

the gears got "confused"

No, they just stopped your terrible cross-chaining for you :P

On a more serious note - It shifts better, Di2 gives you more consistent shifting over the life of the bike, ability to run shifters in extra places like aerobar extensions that still shifts perfectly unlike bentass cable runs. Shift adjustment is easier - if you're RD is knocked you can tune it back in while riding unlike most cable setups. Travel with the bike is much easier as you can unplug stuff. If you ride ultras like moi, you have less RSI symptoms and won't end up needing to do monstershifts.

Also, how can one change gears with thick winter gloves when the buttons are so small?

I am not looking to re-sell, I will ride a couple of thousand miles before repeating exactly what I have just said and be upset I put myself through it.

how can one change gears with thick winter gloves when the buttons are so small?

I mean, I don't know how dexterous you are but I have pretty big hands and manage ok.

If you already had a plain jane road bike with DA on it then it's less useful. If you use it for TT bikes, bikes that get packed a lot, ultraracing bikes, then Di2 is much nicer. Just the fact you don't have cable drag though is enough for me to not go back to cable gears.

I have di2 and etap, etap is definitely a bit easier with big gloves.
I kept on mixing up which button to press to shift up and down, but my brain has got used to it now.

Like a lot of things bike handling, it's a knack that takes a bit of time to master.

@hippy has nailed most of the upsides, a lot of which are around convenience or if you've got a non-standard bike.

For me it's fit and very largely forget - and whilst some people bemoan having to charge their Di2 batteries once a month, they are more than happy to refill tubeless sealant, apply chain lube, degrease jockey wheels and another dozen items which actually require elbow grease..