Home DIY

I like the look of those brackets. Where are they from?

We had the same problem, looked like wee stains on our ceiling. Used this stuff and then painted over it. Works a charm.

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Nice toes.
#dammit

Cheers, that did help. Eventually got through to Currys, and Beko, so complaints raised with both that 16months is not a good lifespan for a fridge, we'll see what happens.

I'll be having a massive barbecue tonight then I guess...

Installing a power connection for a dishwasher in an empty unit (installing power under the sink in the unit to the right of the empty one). That's not to be DIY'd is it in terms of regs for selling house etc?

Assuming getting a spark in, rough cost? Any prep that should be done in advance?

Anyone hazard a guess at this guys value?

Same as the big blue one obscured by a capacitor on the PCB.

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Slightly better photo of the pcb:

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Guessing but it looks like 4 band - red brown orange - gold

That would come out as 2 1 * 1K = 21K +/- 5%

Is it this one?

They're from the seller vds_fabrications on ebay.

I do like them, but they're a little bit rough and ready and I think the screw holes aren't all consistent. Which doesn't really matter unless you try to attach a different bracket to the one you used to mark out the holes.

The compressor will have a starter relay plugged into the side of it.
If that's failed, the compressor will probably try to start but not run. Then the overload protection kicks in and it may try to start once it's cooled.
They aren't expensive, but you need one the same or compatable with your compressor.

Looking like this? That seems to be where the noise is coming from, or the compressor, not sure which.

The engineer seemed to be saying the compressor would need to be replaced then re-gassed. Was that BS?

Here's the noise:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/16GM_iYnptK9ZD2DKvVqygaTGnXwJlqb1/view?usp=drivesdk

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The loud click at 8 sec is probably the overload protection tripping as the compressor motor has been drawing current but not running.

It's possible that the compressor is actually seized.

The starting relay lives under the cover on the left side of the compressor. It could be one unit combined with the overload.
Remove cover, unplug wires, pull relay from the 3 pins that connect it to the comp.

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The compressor is still getting warm (as I assume it should) but the radiator up the back of the fridge not at all. I don't know if this confirms what you say about it being seized does it?

The compressor (Black football) would get warm as its being fed electricity for when it's normally running. But it needs the relay to switch contacts over to start the motor first. Otherwise the motor is stationary, drawing current and overheating.

It's still possible that the compressor pump has seized, so the motor can't turn, but way rarer than the PTC/starter giving up.

From your vud, this may have been the Pt number on your comp. Take off the white bit, and get a Pt number for that.
https://www.bekospares.co.uk/fridge-freezer/compressor-jiaxipera-tg1114y-r600a/product.pl?pid=5009704&path=110911&refine=compressor

@Bobbo was right. I just used the ordinary screws I posted up thread and it’s pretty solid. Wanted to avoid expanding bolts as they are irreversible pretty much. Happy with how it turned out.

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That looks great!

So it's only supported by the back flanges?
Or is something attached to the back wall from the ply as well?

Just the rear flanges. The screws are pretty heavy duty, they were surplus with out column radiators. The brick was also in pretty good condition when I drilled it which gave me confidence.

Does the current for the compressor not go via the relay though? So if it's getting warm, suggests it's the pump motor, rather than the relay at fault. Sorry if I'm misunderstanding how it works. This thread sounds like the same thing

I got the relay off, it's this one. Is there any way to tell if it is the cause before ordering the replacement?

Is there any way to tell if it is the cause before ordering the replacement?

https://static-cdn.imageservice.cloud/3319027/ptc-relay-wiring-diagram-wiring-diagram-mega.jpg

You can measure the resistance of the motor coils to discount theose being burnt out. It takes a few seconds for a multimeter to stabilise at a reading
The 3 pins Common, Start and Run.
S-R (6K ohm? ) highest reading through both coils.
C-S (4K) resistance of Starting windings
C-R (2K) resistance of Run windings
Any pin to Earth should be open.

Does the capacitor (silver cylinder to the left of your motor) seem to be bulged or leaking?
Do you have a multimeter to test capacitance?

You can test the coil of the relay for continuity and across the switched terminals but it can be difficult to tell if it's actually switching when in situe.
Does it smell burnt or have a discoloured area?

Edit.
Some current will flow through the run winding, even if the motor is stationary. Hence getting warm.
I couldn't hear it, but does yours actually run for a few seconds and then trip off, or just sit there humming before tripping.

You can measure the resistance of the motor coils to discount theose being burnt out. It takes a few seconds for a multimeter to stabilise at a reading

The 3 pins Common, Start and Run.
S-R (6K ohm? ) highest reading through both coils.
C-S (4K) resistance of Starting windings
C-R (2K) resistance of Run windings
Any pin to Earth should be open.

They're reading much lower - 22/45Ohms. I Guess this means the motor's screwed?

Does the capacitor (silver cylinder to the left of your motor) seem to be bulged or leaking?

No

Do you have a multimeter to test capacitance?

Yes, seems to be ok

You can test the coil of the relay for continuity and across the switched terminals but it can be difficult to tell if it's actually switching when in situe.
Does it smell burnt or have a discoloured area?

Edit.
Some current will flow through the run winding, even if the motor is stationary. Hence getting warm.
I couldn't hear it, but does yours actually run for a few seconds and then trip off, or just sit there humming before tripping.

The later I think, there was a slight hum between it trying to kick in and the 2nd click (overload?) but nothing that sounded like the motor running...

Edit: no signs of burning or arcing on the relay either

You can measure the resistance of the motor coils to discount theose being burnt out. It takes a few seconds for a multimeter to stabilise at a reading

The 3 pins Common, Start and Run.
S-R (6K ohm? ) highest reading through both coils.
C-S (4K) resistance of Starting windings
C-R (2K) resistance of Run windings
Any pin to Earth should be open.

They're reading much lower - 22/45Ohms. I Guess this means the motor's screwed?

No, thats probably OK if you have 22, 45, 67

My mistake adding KOhms as that would be very high for it. It's a while since I measured ones on our dehumidifier and much longer back for the fridge or works aircon.

huh, seems more like 22/22/45

Worth giving the new relay a back for £13 from ebay do you think?

Sounds like I'll get a depreciated credit note from Currys, but it'd save a lot of hassle just not having to move it through my hall again.

more like 22/22/45

Worth giving the new relay a back for £13 from ebay do you think?

You've got a resistance on each coil (not open or shorted) and also the sum of the two, so that stacks up.

With ebay returns massively siding with the customer, its certainly worth it.