Home DIY

Oven fan replacement. Opened up back panel. Looks
Like it’s been on fire at some point. Worth persevering or replace entire unit?

Also anyone know what’s going on in the wall behind? Various tubes and semi buried fittings? Obvs there is the gas piping for the hob

2 Attachments

what’s going on in the wall behind?

It looks like they buried a conduit & junction box in the wall back in the 70s

Worth persevering or replace entire unit

If it's been on fire once it could well be on fire again.

Fan blades seem quite wedded to the axle so might have to bin it all anyway

Unless you can identify the burney source that would be my plan.

Is it possible it was a build up of grease, or a spillage from above that caught fire?

the size of that bran flakes box !!

Yeah probably.

£180 to replace the oven. It's old. It chews through elements every two years or so.

Time. To. Die.

It's a normal size box, we got a 3/4 size kitchen.

Thank you! It was very cheap by forum standards. All Ikea, B&Q tiles, existing oven.

And the lawn rake was only £5.99 from Middle of Lidl.

My next question about the shelves is that the bottom shelf was resting on two pieces of MDF, which are resting on two 44sqmm pieces of timber. Nothing is attached to anything. Should I:

a. Do nothing - books will stop the shelf tipping
b. Attach the shelf to one of the pieces of MDF with countersunk screws from below or wood glue?
c. Attach everything together - shelf, MDF, timber to each other and the floor

I can't see any reason to do b) or c) aside from wanting to feel like I've done a "proper" job, and the slight possibility that the shelf could be unbalanced and tip over if you leant on it. But it's only 8cm from the floor and will have heavy cookery books on it.

Most glaziers will be able to cut and fit coloured glass splashbacks. Or supply them for you to fit yourself.

Loft hatch is 70cm wide

Want to stick a 100cm x 160cm table up there.

Presumably 2 x 50cm x 160cm planks and then jointed underneath by a batten or something? They'll be going on some kee klamp stuff I'm getting cut. Doesn't matter what the surface is - just needs to be solid and provide a reasonably flat surface once it's assembled.

Where's my best bet to get cut to size? Every timber merchant I search for locally is shut at the moment and can't find a kitchen worktop type place that doesn't charge a fortune to chop up a 3m stretch of laminate.

Might have just found somewhere: https://one-stop-diy.co.uk

"If it comes in a sheet and used to be a tree, we probably sell it."

What are the chances of a small child using it as a step?
Small is defined here as > weight of books. Also doesn't understand "Don't do that"

Guess why my shelves are all fastened down.

Does Pythagoras offer a greater dimension?

He's only 9 weeks old so it can probably go to the bottom of the jobs list.

Does Pythagoras offer a greater dimension?

Just under 100cm (70^2 = 4900, so you're looking at sqrt(9800) which is just under 100).

Plus you've got to take into account the depth of the table top which will reduce the width that you can get through it as you can't go exactly from corner to corner.

Even then there might not be enough space to get the table top through vertically without twisting it, which will require even more leeway.

A ~10cm inverse shim on the inside of the loft hatch should be enough though.

A ~10cm inverse shim on the inside of the loft hatch should be enough though.

More tempting than you could know.

Just bumping my post.

https://www.lfgss.com/comments/15274300/

Would really appreciate any advice or guidance on best material/wood size for the underfloor bearers(?) - the long bits of wood running end to end under the shed (think they're 38mm X 47mm - ie is this suitable or was it the cheap option).

I think I understand how to replace the rotten shiplap panels.

Other questions I've thought of are:

• would painting the most at risk bearer with roof paint be a good idea , or would it just lock in moisture and rot faster?
  
• would cutting a 2" channel in the concrete to draw the water just end destroying the base?
  
  

Cheers.

Of course having treated it with the lack of DIY care it deserves and ordering a replacement - to be delivered tomorrow - the bastard thing starts working properly again.

Are any bearers rotten? I'd so I'd replace with same size treated wood. Replace the rotten cladding. Put a gutter at the top of the shed wall to catch the roof rain fall off.
I wouldn't do anything with the concrete base. I'm guessing the rot is caused by water splashing up and not from stuff sitting in water?

Of course it does. But it only has your best interests at heart, because now you have a spare to hand!

Are any bearers rotten?

The fence side is, but unsure of the others. Thinking a preventative would be to put two bearers down.

I'm guessing the rot is caused by water splashing up and not from stuff sitting in water?

Hopefully this pic and diagram show the situation. I need to find a time in the morning when my kid isn't around to check the water flow. Previously there was a lot of crap down there which wouldn't have helped with avaporation.

We got ours from there. I don’t trust adhesive, so I screwed a battern into the wall for it to rest on, and then very carefully drilled holes into the wall and screwed it on. I think it must have come with the screws and “top hat” (?) fittings. It looks great and has saved me from wall cleaning/ repainting many times.