Home DIY

Also @tbc

If the decor panels are 18mm mdf I’m pretty sure they’d support shelf pins.

Most likely 15mm/18mm chipboard (depending on manufacturer) but will still hold it.

I'm with trunkie on this, if the shelf fits the space well then all of the weight will be transmitted down through the decor panel if you put a screw or shelf pin there it will not pull away. By using the tracks you are overcomplicating things significantly and making the space less usable as well.

Comes with a high level of stress at the moment. Hope I can hang on to it.

Indeed? All the best in that case.

My car sits outside my flat, one floor down. I'm not using it at the moment, other than for a weekly trip to the supermarket, and it's battery doesn't seem to enjoy this.

It's currently plugged into a cTek charger, but it's a bit inelegant with the charger dangling over the balcony.

I'd like to attach a sprung cable reel to the edge of the balcony so that after parking the car I could reach up, grab the end of the cable and plug it into the cTek tail that I've attached to the battery, and which is accessible in the windscreen scuttle area.

Best to buy a complete unit and just change the connectors on the end?

I've been looking at something along these lines, bit it's a bit of a beast.

I'd be interested in what you come up with as a solution. If I ever want to use any power tools, I need to grab the extension reel, unwind it, plug it in in the house and feed it out though the ajar front door or the cat flap. And then when I'm done, reel it up and store it away. This is enough of a faff to stop me doing things I would otherwise do faffless (or at least, faff-reduced).

Can't run permanent power due to lease/crossing shared path reasons.

I would also probably have to revers the connectors as the retractable end would need to be the male end.

I was thinking an old vacuum cable rewind mechanism, but unsure of its jankiness levels.

I would also probably have to revers the connectors as the retractable end would need to be the male end.

I can think of a very good reason not to have a live cable terminated with a male plug.

It won't be though, it would still be male/female, like any extension lead, just auto reeling.

Ah, ok - so the reel is (for e.g.) on the wall of the shed, then you take the male end and walk into the house with it, plug it in?

@Bobbo

I'd come to terms with having a 16mm gap at the back of the shelves but thought it wouldn't matter because they'll be bookshelves anyway.

I had thought I'd cut the shelves into T-shapes to hide the gaps at the sides, but if there's an easier way of doing it then I'd take that.

I think the decor panels are only 15mm and I assume they're fastened on well enough - but will battens definitely hold with such short screws? Or should I aim to go into the cabinet carcass as well?

Thanks both for your help.

You say shelf pins - could that really work for 220 x 570 x 37mm blocks of worktop?

So basically I could just drill parallel holes in the sides and shove in a couple of shelf pins?

DIY, just not 'home'.

My passenger side powered window just collapsed down into the door frame earlier as I was driving back up the hill to the house. Luckily it didn't shatter and after parking I've pulled it up into place. I pushed the button so the disconnected motor is at its highest but it doesn't appear to be doing much and I can easily slide the window down with my hands.

Is this something I can repair myself? I presume there must be a grip or something that clamps the window in place that the glass has come out of. Presumably this is accessed from inside the door and that panel comes off somehow.

Quick google turns this up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LVHaVNclWqg

But can't find much to show the window being reconnected. Is this a garage job or something I can feasibly do myself with a screwdriver?

Da

Don’t Kia have a seven year warranty? How old is the car?

Older than 7 years. Needs to be replaced but no work since Jan so I'm looking at a screwdriver and a circular saw and trying to figure which will be most productive.

Either the regulator is buggered or the glass has jumped out of it, go to YouTube to find “Kia door panel removal” and “Kia window regulator replacement” and see if you have the tools mentioned.

"regulator" is the word I'm after - thanks.

Do you need any special tools to remove the trim clips, no I haven't watched the video.

Once the panel is off, you can see what the problem is.

Stupid question, does the window winder motor still make a operating noise similar to the non broken door or does the motor sound really high pitched?

Worst comes to the worst, wedge the window shut with a bit of wood.

Kitchen suppliers will not deviate from their standard sizes as it will screw up their production lines and margins.

Was looking at bespoke kitchens and lots of them aren't either. A few of the order on line places let you specify 50mm sizes from 300mm to 1400mm as I was looking at them for the kitchen in the flat to create a bespoke kitchen..

So I took the panel off. I can see two holes about half way down and can see the regulator raise and lower. One end seems a bit looser than the other but they both go up and down happily. The glass lowers into a little rubber clamp and seems firm in the front clamp but less firm in the back one. However when I put the glass in as well as it will go and then try to raise the window it just makes an awful clunk as though it's going to send rice grain sized pieces of glass everywhere.

I could raise the regulator up to the top position but wouldn't be able to see the little rubber clamps it slots down into (seeing as there's some give in one of them. For now I'm just providing entertainment for the neighbours.

For now I'm just providing entertainment for the neighbours.

A valuable service in these unique and trying times. Etc.

He's only gone and done it! I tried one last go and it worked.

Might just swing my dick over my shoulder and walk off.

Looked at the end of the video that you linked to, and can see how difficult it is to see anything without removing the silver panel. That panel is probably attached with butyl (sp) tape/sealant.

Is the glass lose on the rear attachment in and up and down or in and out (towards interior and away) or to the front of the car or the rear? Am trying to guess if you can see if the window runners have become damaged or the infill have torn so the glass has extra movement.