What time is it? Watches and horology

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  • Is it also able to be wound by hands too?

    My reserve was low until I manually wounds it and it’s back in action (couple days worth).

  • Anyone know if the airking ref 14000/14010 ever came with solid end links before it was replaced by the 114200 in 2007? Cheers

  • I dont have a definitive answer but I must have seen twenty 14000 over the years and none of them had solid end links.

  • @Stonehedge cheers. See many not on the bracelet? Guessing not because 34mm but seen some great looking 36mm explorer 1s on nato straps

  • Not much horology in this thread. I found this distracting enough. At some points they use a process to turn some of the components a blue/purple colour. What is going on there?

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dU7iKNmQBIs&feature=youtu.be

  • Nice video.

    At some points they use a process to turn some of the components a blue/purple colour. What is going on there?

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tempering_(metallurgy)#Tempering_colors

  • I actually read somewhere that the sellita equivilant kept better time for what ever reason. Will see if I can find the article online tomorrow.

  • I see these hands and all I think is:


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  • Not sure how well "respected" but this is the info that I found that claimed the Sellita to actually perform more accurately due to the improved hair spring. It also as one extra jewel for less resistance.

    http://watchflipr.com/movements/sellita-sw200-vs-eta-2824-2/


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  • The one extra jewel thing is purely a marketing ploy, it has no measurable effect on the movement. Or so a watch maker who knows a lot more than me told me.

  • Pretty sure I read the additional jewel was put in mainly to lessen the risk of people accusing them of copying.

    I think it's time for ETA and Sellita fans to put down the loupe of war and give peace a chance. Both movements are special in their own practically identical ways.

  • In other news, I'm after a thick rough canvassy / sailclothy type strap to stick on the U2. Recently bought a WatchGecko sailcloth strap for it and it's super comfy but alas not thick enough. I'm after some proper chunk. Anyone got any recommendations?

  • IIRC anything over a certain number of jewels (my memory says something like 17 jewels for a simple handwind; 24 for a date automatic?) is probably just marketing, and doesn't make any performance difference to the movement.

  • There was a bit of a phase of watch manufacturers doing that, doesn't really happen these days I don't think.

  • But would you pay £2k or more for a watch with a Sellita?

  • Yep, and have done (or at least its ETA equivalent), but then I'm not turned on by movements so it's ETTO. I don't really care if something's stock or in-house (in fact in some cases, like the PAM and the Black Bay Blue, I actively chose the ETA model over the in-house variant). I'm more worried about the externals like case design and finish, than whether a horological house has made the movement themselves . Ii don't see that there's an inherent value to an in-house movement - unless there's a real world difference (eg requires less servicing, offers longer power reserve etc) I'd prefer to go stock as easier to fix etc.

  • Yes, and I have.

    Edit: And wouldn't hesitate to spend triple that on a watch with an SW300 inside, depending on the full circumstances. And me not being skint.

  • I mean specifically the Sellita. I would pay for the eta. And agree sometimes I'd prefer the eta over the in house.

    For me,until I feel that the brand is as good, consistently,as AN Eta, I don't feel its worth paying £2k or more.

  • That's the point though mate. They are as consistently good as an ETA.

    My Muehle has a modified SW300 inside and I think that was over £2k, if my memory serves me correctly.

  • Doesn't your Panerai have a Unitas movement inside? Cant remember which model you bought.

  • Re: @Pifko's praise of the WatchGecko Erika strap... it doesn't appear on the website any more.
    Would anyone be willing to part with theirs?

    The cheap NATO I bought from t-watches is very, very stiff and I'd like to try something a bit stretchier.

  • Sorry, didn't make it clear - yes i'd pay that for a SW movement if i liked the watch. I don't really differentiate between Sellita / ETA - i see them as basically the same - robust serviceable movements that do the job of making the hands turn at roughly the right rate.
    I'm more about aesthetics (cos I'm shallow innit).

    Prices for those movements are pretty similar as well, so if you're paying £2k + for a watch with ether of them in, the choice ETA or Sellita isn't a material difference to the cost to the maker making it - the uplift in cost you're paying for is all the extras - finish, materials, nice fluffy brand backstory and marketing etc.

  • so if you're paying £2k + for a watch with ether of them in

    Or £5k+ if you're buying an IWC Portofino with a Selita SW300 in...

  • I think the only way for you to get over this hurdle is to immediately buy that Oris and then see if you worry about what's under the hood whilst you're staring at it. Learn by doing :)

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What time is it? Watches and horology

Posted by Avatar for coppiThat @coppiThat

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