Home DIY

Got some of the incredibly lumpy outside electrical arrangement sorted. A mysterious timer thingy that switched outlets on and off seemingly at random is now gone. It's still ticking menacingly though, laying there on the decking. I've probably jinxed the whole electrical system now by removing its overlord.

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i would say that attaching that, plus the weight of the wood and whatever the shelves, rail and hook need to hold are beyond the capacity of fasteners that fit in those flanges (flanges are the circular flat bits with the screw holes in).

i think you would need some kind of bracing below. angled pieces supporting the shelf from below.

just read back @ffm comment and basically the same thing lol

No one I know has set out to buy an Evolution saw, they've all just kind of ended up with them. Usually needing something for a job and having budget, and the Evo sits in just the right spot of being just about ok, and reasonably priced. And I have to admit I'd pretty impressed.
From abusing the shit out of one of their multi material chop saws (it's noisy as fuck, but cutting mild steel and ally on a cheap saw is always going to be), to ragging around their paddle mixers - I have to admit they hold up really well. Especially as everyone treats them with such disrespect, lol.

+1 @Mickie_Cricket, if there's no bracing of that unit above or below then those tiny flanges won't hold it regardless of what you fix it with.

Not necessarily, that's keyklamp or something similar, the flanges are solid and as a system it's designed for handrails etc. If you're really after a solid fixing then expanding bolts or threaded bar with chemfix (properly applied) will hold it very solidly (chin up bar solid). If all 4 holes in the flanges have proper fixings with good screws and heavy duty plugs then it should hold.

With that much stick out? It's a lot further than a handrail.

That would be my concern as well. A virtual single horizontal point of attachment doesn't seem strong enough, like something Frank Lloyd Wright would do in the interest of aesthetics, engineering be damned.
I'm trying to figure a way around this problem in making a pull up bar for my wife.

Isn't that just an old-school thermostat?

Or maybe a timer for vacations and such?

Daily and weekly timer.

That's what I'm thinking.

I've definitely had that same thing in a house I've lived in, but it was part of our heating system I think.

Not that kind of handrail.

Think floor standing, the type used in factories to separate walking routes from work areas. Where they are subjected to massive amounts of force from fat bastards leaning on them, badly driven pallet and forklift trucks etc. and still stay standing.

I'm trying to figure a way around this problem in making a pull up bar for my wife.

Threaded bar, bolts, washers and some of this stuff would be pretty bomb proof

Thanks, was thinking about black pipe and possibly bolting right through (it would be placed over a doorway).

I think in that situation the fixings are usually going into a solid concrete floor and (at least by design) are not constantly stressed in one direction in the way that shelf will be due to its weight (and the weight of stuff on it). If it's being fitted into brick then I really don't rate its chances. If you were to use long masonry screws (preferably fitted into at least 2 separate bricks) then maybe, but I wouldn't fancy it with expanding bolts or plugs.

wait a week and see what happens

are you hanging it on brick? That can be hard to do and you can make a huge mess. Especially if the brick is old. Also your expansion anchor can crack the old brick (less likely, but a real bummer). By the end of the job you may have succeeded with half the mounts, with the remaining being a nearly irreversible mess. And if the mountings are not perfect, they will eventually wiggle out. I would very strongly entertain the notion of finding an alternative solution.

If you do decide to drill into brick, get a good masonry bit from the store and size matched mounting hardware. The right way to do it with with Tapcon bolts because expansion anchors can crack the brick. A 3/16” tapcon into brick uses 5/32” hole for example.... and you really need a good drill and bit to do this correctly. And a vacuum... sorry I've been down this road before.

The only way I'd mount something like that is into the wood studs with good tight hardware. If I couldn't hit the studs, I'd mount a piece of 8" wide piece of wood on the wall with multiple drywall mounts making effort to hit the studs when possible and then mount that rack to the piece of wood to disperse the load. there is a lot of leverage working against you.

I'm on a roll here.

Don't underestimate the thickness of the paint as it can alter (ruin) the fit of the door into the frame, especially near the hinges.

How about epoxy the bolts into the brick? Brick too friable and would simply not grip?

Here are mine so far:

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It could be worse. We've got these throughout the house, nasty hollow plywood things in such strange sizes it's really hard to buy replacements:

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I have Pink Grip,I was going to squeeze some in before I put in wall plugs.

I feel like taking some of them down. Most of the downstairs ones are propped open permanently. Will stop people hanging stuff on the back of them too. A personal peeve.

I wouldn't use pink grip. The stuff I linked to up the thread is designed for holding bolts etc. in and expands slightly as it dries. Pink grip is pretty much designed to hold skirtings onto walls and can fail spectacularly, as in the skirting decides it wants to move (cup, twist or similar) and is held in place by the pink grip building up tension until the adhesive fails and a length of skirting flies across the room.