-
• #6927
More pressure until they jump to place. Always found these a bit baggy but for really tight fittings I always squirt some soapy water or alcohol in the unseated part, pump to unreasonable PSI. Repeat as many times as necessary, but don't leave your gravel tires pumped at 100 PSI, release as soon as it seats.
-
• #6928
Ah... that worked.
-
• #6929
Large volume 26’ all purpose mtb tyres. Reconditioning an old trek mountain bike and want something a bit higher than the 2.1” that are on the wheels at the moment. Currently have an old 2.4 Schwalbe Big Betty in the front and this will just about fit in the rear so probably looking for something around this size? It’s rigid, hence looking for some extra squish, example below
1 Attachment
-
• #6930
Well I was just seating mine and making sure they were all seated and was on the way up to 100 PSI and there was an almighty bang and the tyre blew off the rim. My ear rang quite a lot. But the tyres fine. So I wouldn't even go up to 100, never mind leaving them on.
I actually used one of those garden weed sprayers, put a bit of pipe over the end and on to the valve, pumped it up, released the pressure and it seated.
-
• #6931
So the saga of trying to set my tyres up tubeless continues. The front one held air all night and is fine but the rear one just continues to leak air from the bead of the tyres. It is seated on the bead and will hold air but its not sealed.
I already put the sealant in assuming it was seated as it was on the bead. I just let all the air out, went round with some warm soapy water and pumped it up again to around 60 PSI to try and seat it properly but it is still leaking air from the bead, I can see it clearly now it has soapy water on.
Any suggestions?
-
• #6932
obvious answer seems to add some rim tape, assuming you have not over-done that already.
on another occasion on road wheels, i had the same issue and i started from scratch again. I noticed some irregularity at the rim weld which i sanded down slightly, retaped, reseated, refilled with sealant. tubeless is a right faff -
• #6933
Any suggestions?
Take it for a quick ride. There's nothing like actual use to distribute the sealant and fill those last little gaps.
-
• #6934
Not what I wanted to hear.
@danstuff More like what I wanted to hear. I did put the sealant in yesterday though, will it still be liquid enough to move around and fill gaps? Will give that a go first and see.
-
• #6935
will it still be liquid enough to move around and fill gaps?
Should be. Sealant dries out eventually but that should take months not hours!
-
• #6936
Challenge. Tubeless.
Paris Roubaix 27c Vs Strada Bianca 30cAnyone used either?
-
• #6937
Are the Roubaix tubeless? I’ve used the 27mm, I thought non-tubeless but maybe there are two variants, and had no complaints.
Some reports complained they were easy to puncture, but that could’ve been the older model.
-
• #6938
Yeah they have quite a few variants though I'm not sure its clear to customers.
Just looking on a distributor's website there's 120tpi and 300tpi versions of both tubeless and non tubeless. The 300tpi ones are handmade
There's also tubular.And they come in black, white, tan, brown
-
• #6939
Mine were 300tpi (why pay less when you can pay more?), if that helps.
-
• #6940
I had/have strada bianca 36c 300tpi, but set up with inner tubes.
+1 on the lack of puncture resistance, despite the pp2 strip system, I punctured twice on my first ride when new, then another 2/3 times in the 1500/2000km 50% offroad they lasted.
Sidewalls are also cotton I think, which makes them prone to tears on rocky offroad.
Other than that they are a dream, compound is lush, roll really well on road, behave properly offroad. -
• #6941
Sidewalls are also cotton I think, which makes them prone to tears on rocky offroad.
They're pretty fast wearing but combine with this and they've limited life unless you stay on the tarmac at all times. Nice tyres (once you get the bastards on) but I'd never buy another set.
-
• #6942
I've got a set of the Paris Roubaix... They're a bit meh for the money.
Look great but puncture quite easily. And maybe my rims are too wide but the tyre profile was really flat and rock hard (basically unrideable) at anything over 60psi.
-
• #6943
Thanks, I think they may be ok for intended purpose. I expect them to puncture easily given they're a lightweight cotton tyre. That is hopefully negated somewhat by being set up tubeless.
It's for a dry weather only, summer bike.
Cost isn't too much of an issue as I can get them discounted -
• #6944
I've been using these on the fixed for a few months after a recommendation.
https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/TYPAJBMM/jack-brown-mile-muncher-700c-folding-tyre
Really terrific tyres, not just for £15, full stop. They're pretty light and made with a good folding bead but were £15 each in a sale. No flats. Picked a few bits of glass etc out but so far very pleased. And they look great.
-
• #6946
Sounds like they'll suit your needs then. Not sure if you've fitted challenge tyres before but they're not fun. I had some success using a zip tie to hold on the bead in one section while using a tyre lever.
-
• #6947
Have been using some challenge Elite for about a year until last week when I finally changed them after puncturing on every single ride. I remember them being tough but perhaps because they've been on and off so often, they became relatively easy to remove in the end.
Worth remembering though, cheers -
• #6948
Gotta really aim for that groove in the middle of the rim
-
• #6950
Haven’t used tubeless but used both PR and SB pro series tyres and the PR race vulcanised tyres.
Pro series tyres are utter arses to fit on tubeless compatible rims but lovely rolling and good compound. Grip predicable and good in both wet and dry. Both have double puncture strip in them (updated as originally PR only had single) which works fairly well, I ran SB all winter with 1 puncture which is pretty good for Devon lanes. On 21mm internal rims the PR came up about 30mm and the SB about 33mm.
Pro series uses a super poly casing rather than cotton (300 vs 260 tpi for PR vs SB). The white version uses a silk casing which might rot if it gets really wet and is left wet.
This helped me in the end. Apply the soapy water with a brush, and don't be afraid to pump the tyres up untill you hear those satisfying pops.