Cannondale Aficionados / Owners

you got a better suggestion

in the BB

new bike

Have to agree.

I have become interested in Cannondale MTB frames, after I saw two beautiful ones two days running
More specifically the 26" wheel rim brake headshok variety

Please could someone enlighten me on the difference between the F400, F600, F800, F1000, and F2000 models. I'm assuming more numbers are better?
Lastly, is the headshok reliable / a pig to work with on these models?

The frames are largely the same - the higher the number the higher the spec finishing kit in a given model year.

There are some exceptions for example they used an older model frame for very low F numbers. Like a CAAD3 instead of a CAAD4.

Headshok is the same inside as a booted Lefty.

@scrabble has a F something that he’s turned into a drop bar gravgrav bike, might be a good one to talk to about that.

There are a load of old Cannondale catalogs online that talk about numbers I believe.

does anyone have a left sisl2 arm in 172.5 length?

I do indeed, though Howard is the forum old Cannondale mountain bike guru. @platypus - Generally, it's like buying a new Cannondale, but with the frustrations over proprietory equipment and reliability issues squared.

The F numbers are something to do with how fast they go, so getting higher numbers is betterer. That's why I went for a F1000.

The newer headshock forks (Ultra DL /DLR) you can still get the bits for. The older ones are getting rarer and internals are not interchangeable as they changed the tpi of the threads.

I absolutely love mine The frame is older, early 2000s, but the forks are the newer variety (2015?).

This year it's got Ritchey Venturemax bars and wide rims which have transformed the handling. It is so much fun. Anyone that says 'just ride a proper mountain bike" is wrong and I will fight them. I have a proper mountain bike for mountain biking, but smashing about bridleways and local woods, linked with gravel tracks, b roads and anything else, this is the max smiles per mile.

This was it this morning in the woods.

3 Attachments

Looks great fun. They are lovely frames. When they work the H/S is really awesome too.

Haven’t you essentially made a Slate?

Yep. But for a fraction of the price. Think it's got bigger clearances and more travel too. The bigger clearance is nice as I really like the 2.2 speed kings. Could live with less travel. 60mm would be fine for taking the edge off rooty bits. 80mm is indulgent. Think the slate has just 30mm. Considering the extra cost/faff of suspension, this seems a bit stingy.

@platypus -
Some porn for you -
https://vintagecannondale.com/

Such a sweet ride, I'd love to replace my carbon cross bike and Caad10 with pretty much this.

Thanks. As lovely as it is, i'm not sure it could ever replace a true road bike. Riding this and then riding my Capo are almost two different sports.

I've been thinking about the suspension though. I think 50/60mm would be the sweetspot, as the "dive" at 80mm can be bit unerving, particularly with the high saddle.

Does anyone know if there is a way to reduce the travel or stiffen the last part of the stroke. There are no volume reducers to buy, but I've heard of putting thick gear oil into air chambers to achieve a similar result. What do the hive mind think to trying that?

Get a wine cork and cut it down to size, chuck it in.

Or yeah you can just use any non compressible fluid that won't damage the seals.

I'm on the hunt for a Cannondale Hooligan. Ideally the one with the rigid lefty fork. Full bike.
Proving hard to find.

Anybody have one they want to sell me?

Cheers!

Join the queue! Theres a facebook group, and they occasionally come up on ebay, £700 seems to be about the going rate, unless you 'drop on' one... good luck!

I have hollowgram si bb30 crankset wth spidering installed on my caad10 disc black inc.

Does anyone have experience of having to use non standard spacer set ups on the cranks to get a better chain line?

the crank set has been installed exactly as the instructions here show: https://www.cannondale.com/-/media/files/manual-uploads/manuals/sisl2_road_crankset_instr_1012.pdf

But when I'm in the 11t or 12t cog on the cassette it slips. I'd though it was worn chain or cassette since both were taken from a previous bike. But I've put on new cassette and chain and its still happening.

I've since realised that when in the 11t and 12t cogs theres a lot of cross chain. looking at the chain line i've realised the drive side crank needs to come outboard a bit more to stop the cross chaining.

Even when in the big ring and the 11t cog it slips, the chain is coming away at an angle from the cassette to the left (in board) and its riding up onto the 12t. So to fix this bringing the drive side crank outboard should help I think?

But it's installed as per the instructions...

Is this common to have to mess about with the spacing on hollowgram? Its such a pain in the tits to take the hollow gram arms off. I have all the propriety tools for the cranks set so will take them off this afternoon and try fiddle.
But would like to know if anyone else has experienced similar?

Really thinking about sacking off the frame and cranks now. frame is a 58 incase anyone wants to buy...

Is the hanger bent, and how new are the cables?

The hanger certainly looks straight, but I've not used the proper tool to check the hanger alignment. But Im fairly sure the hanger is ok.
I'll get a picture to try show how the chain is coming away from the cassette towards the chainrings.
Running Etap, no cables!

Only time I had shifting problems with mine was a bent hanger, doesn't seem to take much to bend 'em.

Also, I'm no expert but you've linked to the SISL2 installation instructions - are the Si ones the same?

Also, I'm no expert but you've linked to the SISL2 installation instructions - are the Si ones the same?

As far as I know the fitting instructions are the same. I'm using the 109mm sisl2 axle and the spacer kit showing there.

Yeah the hanger I'll try get checked just to try eliminate as much as possible but it might be tricky with the lock down right now.

Is there something like a ghetto diy way I could check hanger alignment? I suppose the proper tool is best though since it could be out by a fraction or so.

But when I'm in the 11t or 12t cog on the cassette it slips

On the big ring?

Even when in the big ring and the 11t cog it slips, the chain is coming away at an angle from the cassette to the left (in board) and its riding up onto the 12t.

Uh ok.

You can’t add spacers beyond the narrow preload jobbies to the axle - you could only move the entire assembly which gives you other interesting problems.

So something else is wrong somewhere.

Its actually harder for it to slip in the big ring actually, it doesnt slip so much but i can hear more noise. This makes me suspect its the drive side cranks being to far inboard because the chain line looks more normal while in big ring but still not right.

when in the small ring it slips constantly in 11t and 12t

when in the small ring it slips constantly in 11t and 12t

This is not a combination you should be riding in

Try another wheel? Might be some weirdness with the free hub / cassette combo you are using?