Plumber / Plumbers / Plumbing - Show us your pipes

have had a grundfos pump ups2 15-50/60 recently fitted. it seems to be causing a bit of noise via vibration. the pipework in and out seems pretty solid, although its a mess back there.

have tried damping in a few places but theres no obvious one source

Can I do anything from the pump point of view - it seems to have 3 settings and a big screw on the face?

If I need to prevent as much vibration in the pipes and HWT are there any do's or donts?

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Crack open the big screw on the face of the pump and see if there's any air in the pump head causing the noise.

After that I'd suggest playing with the dial and see if a lower speed setting helps the problem. Do you know what the previous pump it replaced was? It's possible that the new pump is a more powerful pump than that which it replaced.

Previous pump shown here . Undid the big screw a bit, some water came out, did it back up. Waiting for the heating to come on for further fettling.

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Bracing the pump doesnt make a difference, nor do any particular pipes seem to be vibrating.
@Nahguavkire what would turning the speed setting down lower do? would the heating take longer to heat up etc? (this does make a bit of difference to the volume)

Turn the pump down to speed one and see if:

a) the noise disappears and

b) if you are happy with the speed the furthest radiator heats up.

If the noise remains you could try some rubber lined pipe clips to isolate the pipework.

Having the pump on fastest speed isn't necessarily the best as it can pull the water around the system too fast and it can 'miss' some of the radiator branches.

Buggeration.

My boiler went off, so I looked at it and the pressure had dropped. I duly wracked my brain and remembered which screw valves to undo to repressurise it. All good, it starts up and the water temp indicator goes up.

BUT, the water from the tap comes out cold.

I ache tried to ensure that I have closed the filling valve screws, but past that I am stumped.

Any bright ideas whilst I chase a plumber.

(My setup is extra annoying as the boiler is in the loft, a pain to get to and nowhere near a tap to check running water temperature)

If boiler is in the attic and pressure dropped it's highly likely that there's an air lock in the boiler. Depending on the model there's either going to be a bleed screw on the outside of the boiler on top or inside the case of the boiler.

If you can find this and open it to let air out you've a good chance of getting it going again.
Obvs take care not to damage the screw, spill water onto electrics etc.

Ahhhh. I will investigate. Thanks.

News from home is that we now have very hot water. I have touched nothing.

I fully expect something to explode!

Hi plumbers!

Anyone ever had tap head gear - i.e. a cartridge valve - that was so stuck it couldn't be removed and the taps had to be replaced?

Not with a big enough lever and some squirts of WD40.

Ta. OK that's funny because my usually reliable guys have told me they cannot remove the carts from the taps - that they worked on 2 years ago - and the taps need replacing.

Hiya folks, I've recently moved and will only be here for a couple of months but have no shower. I've tried to find a plug and hose option to go over the end of the single mixer tap but it's a really annoying shape. I've checked where the water comes out and there's no obvious way to screw in an attachment. Does anyone have any ideas?

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Universal tap connector on Amazon, around £6. They come with a hose connector but you can adapt it to fit your shower attachment.
Universal Tap Connector Adapter Mixer Kitchen Garden Hose Pipe Joiner Fitting-BL https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00X1AWWNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rXfSDb28VGMEB

Thanks for this. That's going to be far better but annoyingly the maximum width this accommodates is 35mm and my tap measures 42mm. Aggghh! On the hunt for a wider one.

That black plastic bit should unscrew and you can fit a connector onto the internal thread.

I'll give it a go.

Give the tap a clean while you are down there. 😉

Haha, will do. I've got the nozzle out and the male end to screw in measures 1inch or 25mm diameter. Is this a standard size?

I'd like to get something like this set up but I'm not sure if that will fit:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/WENKO-WK22866-Ducha-lavabo-CROMO/dp/B07B7YBFGC/ref=pd_sbs_60_4/257-0983432-4692267?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07B7YBFGC&pd_rd_r=b8bb5327-929e-4e1e-bfe4-b5304eb75d38&pd_rd_w=Ys3Bk&pd_rd_wg=QaCV8&pf_rd_p=cc188cba-1892-42b3-956f-6c67d0ab7a00&pf_rd_r=T7WYG1AG8TDYRN79R486&psc=1&refRID=T7WYG1AG8TDYRN79R486

Can you say if I'll need a separate connector?

Plumbing fittings are usually imperial but not always. I can’t say if the hose you’re looking at will fit, but your best bet will be to find a proper local plumbers merchant, take the black tap connector you have along with you and see if they can help. They usually have a way of making things fit, sometimes involving PTFE tape etc, but it’ll work.

Does anyone want this connector hose? Standard, fits Hozelok. About 1m length. They actually sent me two and the postage will be more to return them than the hassle is worth. Free to anyone who could use them.

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Pipesmiths! I need a little guidance...

So, hot water on bath is rubbish, no issue with boiler, immersion or anything else so the issue is with the blending valve. Presumably gunked up and in need of a clean/adjustment.
Have watched a video on the subject and all seems relatively straightforward. I can adjust the valve but the consensus seems to be to dismantle and clean the blending valve instead of adjusting...
My main issue is should I turn off the hot and cold at the mains or is just turning the inline valves under the bath good enough in this case?

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Use the inline isolators.

Get a thermometer and adjust the temperature with an allen key until you hit 41°C. (Recommended temperature to prevent scalding)

The bigger ones have mesh filters in them to catch crud but that doesn't look like it has them.

Edit: Might be in the end of the hot and cold arms where they enter the main body though.

There’s inline no return valve/filter baskets bolted to the valve. As everything felt a bit rickety I decided not to remove them to clean as position was super awkward and I didn’t want to risk damaging anything in the process. Just couldn’t quite get the spanner’s in at the right angles to get it.
Have backed the adjuster all the way out and it’s improved matters somewhat but def could still be hotter. Pressure on that tap is def lower than the sink tap pressure so I presume that those mesh filters are chock full of shite.

Any forum plumbers in E17 ish willing to break curfew?