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• #1927
Mudguard flaps! Cool bike
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• #1928
oh noice cheers! yeah the wald is a bit wobbly with those stays it came with. shame the sjs rack doesn't come in silver but can't argue with the price
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• #1929
thanks! and yeah good shout. just keeping my eyes out for some suitable material for a DIY bodge. weirdly though I found a discarded front mudguard flap on my way to work this morning so might see if it'll fit for now
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• #1930
Suppose this is vintage now since it's 26"
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• #1931
If you've got a sharp knife and some arts 'n' craft skills, this is the way forward.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OIL-RESISTANT-NITRILE-RUBBER-SHEET-Various-sizes-thicknesses/182296610369
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• #1932
what thickness would you recommend for flaps? 2 or 3?
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• #1933
ooh cheers for the tip! I just found this weird vinyl/plastic looking stuff that I might try first
nice rockhopper btw! I had my eye on something similar before I found the muddy fox. also planning a South Downs Way trip this summer - have you done it before? any tips?
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• #1934
Looks good dude!
I’m looking for a similar fork for my dads bike- where’d you find yours?
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• #1935
I have an aluminium one of those for disc brakes. 25 € + postage
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• #1936
Ah sounds good, I’ll send you a pm
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• #1937
what thickness would you recommend for flaps? 2 or 3?
I went with 2mm, yet to but it to brutal use. 3mm should be fine too, so long as your bolts are long enough.
nice rockhopper btw! I had my eye on something similar before I found the muddy fox. also planning a South Downs Way trip this summer - have you done it before? any tips?
Not done it before, tried a portion on a Kepler but was too bumpy/soggy/rutty. I wanted something to chuck around the hills so I built this.
I’m looking for a similar fork for my dads bike- where’d you find yours?
If Wim's fork doesn't suit you I got mine from here. https://www.carboncycles.cc/?s=0&t=0&rb=14&
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• #1938
Glorious!
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• #1939
I've used 3mm which works well, I suspect either would be absolutely fine.
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• #1940
I bought a 22.2mm quill stem adapter and it just too big to fit down the Raleigh Ascender's steerer. I didn't anticipate that it (the bike) would be non-standard. Even Sheldon Brown's site says that of all the incompatibility woes with old Raleighs, stem diameter should not be one of them.
I just measured the old quill stem and it comes up more like 20.9mm or 21mm. The inside of the steerer is about 21.3mm. A search on eBay suggests to me that some old BMXes such as the Raleigh Burner Mk 2 have 21.1mm quills. Apparently my unassuming bike does, too.
So looks like I can't use a quill stem adapter, after all. Will either give up, or try to bodge my newly-arrived Ergotec handlebars onto the old stem.
Update: decided to go the bodge route and after much strenuous effort, managed to bend the single-bolt quill stem open and closed again around the (closed loop) clamping area of the Humpert Ergotec handlebar. I'm not proud of myself, it wasn't big and it wasn't clever, but it seems to have worked.
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• #1941
@AntSel
The 21.15 mm stem diameter or steerer inner diameter was a BMX standard that was also on early mtb and bikes with one piece cranks:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-headsets.htmlI have the same issue: I got a cheap old fork that was advertised as 1", not knowing there was a different kind. I just dremelled / filed the stem down to fit which means I will probably die a fiery death.
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• #1942
The bodge in question:
And the result:
Survived my commute in this morning. Much more comfortable, and the front end feels about a tonne lighter (steel handlebars are heavy, it seems).
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• #1943
Steel stem should be fine - you wouldn't want to be bending aluminium by that amount
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• #1944
@ all the mtb retro fettlers
I have some old Suntour thumbies on my off road touring monster (they look exactly like the XT 3x7 era thumbies, think they were copied from Suntour). They have 7 or 8 sp or friction settings you can switch on the right shifter. I’m using a friction setting on the rear, as i’m running 3x9, and they were just great for about a year.During some quite cold weather both shifters started slipping, left one worse, and the tension screws you can set with a D ring are bottomed out. Can I take these apart and try to roughen the friction interface somehow, or redome a flattened dome washer? Would love to give these longer life. Any clues please tag me!
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• #1946
Thanks for the encouragement. I think I might be home for a while so I’ll see how they come apart.
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• #1947
Any thoughts on the cheapest/easiest way to improve the gear ratio on my '93 Hardrock? Currently using it as a commuter but would like to make it mountainous bikepacking friendly.
It's mostly original (as far as I can tell) and pretty low end – 6 speed, altus c20 groupset (28/38/48 up front, 14-28 at back) with grip shift replacements. The chainrings aren't removable so i'd have to replace the whole crankset if i wanted to change them.
Current lowest ratio is 1.
I think the easiest and cheapest way to do it is by swapping the rear freewheel out for a 14/34 Shimano Tourney 6 speed mega range thing but not sure about compatibility with the rear derailleur. This would give me 0.82.
Could potentially swap out the crankset for a 22/32/42 or something else that's lower if I can find one.
Or alternatively I could upgrade to a 7/8/9/10 speed if i can find the parts, but that'd require new rear wheel, cassette, crankset, shifters etc. so not that keen.
Wondering if there are any other options?
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• #1948
In case anyone was dying to hear how my DIY mudguard flap went - worked a treat on lea river towpath ride this weekend. cheers for the tip! making the second one for the rear will be a fun self-isolation task this week I think
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• #1949
^ Nice!
Agreed, I’d go with the freewheel swap for cheap + quick + relatively painless. To my eye, the rear derailleur cage looks long enough to handle it : ) -
• #1950
Does having your lock there not hit your leg? I've been trying to figure out some way of mounting my lock while keeping by bottle. I've seen people mount them on the fork too but I don't know how much I'd trust that.
Those little canti mounted racks that SJS sell are vry nice for supporting baskets, will feel much more stable than the current setup and they only cost like...twelve pounds or something. Worthwhile upgrade.
Otherwise ur probs ready to take on the world!