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• #6252
With regard to swapping out my Spyre disc brakes for a hydraulic pair (probably Shimano)
How do I know what adapter I need?
It's I.S. disc mount. The spyres are on an adapter. -
• #6253
Shimano brakes usually come with them as the majority of bicycles are IS mount.
You have to be careful as some of the cheapest Shimano hydraulic are usually OEM packaged, meaning the housing could be a touch too short, no IS to post mount etc.
Other option is Clark M2/Clout (they're £30 on Amazon with free shipping).
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• #6254
Thanks Ed.
Does that mean I can sell the current adapters with the Spyre calipers when the time comes? -
• #6255
Does that mean I can sell the current adapters with the Spyre calipers when the time comes?
Yup, some adaptor are usually specific to brakes, as mad as it sound, not all calipers fit on all adaptor (despite the fact they're literally just put the brake in the position for the rotor size.
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• #6256
Cool.
Now I just need to decide on which brakes to buy. -
• #6257
Haven't got an adapter included in both the SLX and XT I've ordered recently...
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• #6258
Annoyed i missed this
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• #6259
My technique was to use a dremel to cut the pin on the inside, remove the pads then use some mole-grips to unscrew the mushed up pin from the back
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• #6260
I'm having no luck with my hope brakes. They're bled, no spongyness or dead spots as far as I can tell, but the Hope sintered pads (which I splashed out on thinking they'd be better) glaze over from a day of riding around town. I've got two mismatched rotors which haven't been changed but have been cleaned with brake cleaner etc.
Are there any tips to get the sintered pads working properly? I thought they were supposed to be some of the best ones.
I'm thinking of upgrading both rotors and pads, any suggestions for the best bang for buck etc.? -
• #6261
Grazed in what way? It can be contaminated by the oil, sometime sintered take a while to bed in (as in they do howl the first time unlike organic), and rotor may have wear on them even when cleaned.
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• #6262
unsure how to describe glazing, they're shiny and smooth looking, you can make out a very rough reflection in the glazed section of them. A little bit like the picture below. I've roughed them up with drywall sanding mesh to get rid of any contaminants etc., but they just glaze over again.
If the rotors are super worn are they likely to be the cause of it?They've been fitted for the best part of a year now, the front brake barely stops the bike, even when I'm squeezing as hard as possible.
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• #6263
I once thought my pads were at fault, replaced and same problems. I then checked the rotors with a calliper as they looked fine and they were utterly worn destroyed.
The upper pad in that picture looks unevenly worn, so possibly the calliper isn’t well aligned.
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• #6264
I bought the bike second hand and haven't changed the rotors yet, didn't really think it would cause the glazing! I might get a new pair of rotors and go from there.
Pic above was just something found on google images! -
• #6265
Not dragging the brakes are you? Or leaving them "on" after stopping so they can't cool properly? I think it's kinda hard to get them hot enough around town to trash pads like that but I managed it on a cargo bike with the extra weight and difficulty to stop it rolling if stopped on a hill.
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• #6266
My spyres have started a high pitched squeaking. Giving the pads and rotors a light sand and clean didnt fix it, neither did adding some carbon grip paste to the back of the pads/pistons. Any ideas?
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• #6267
Replace with Shimano
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• #6268
Theyre shimano pads already. Or do you mean the calipers? And no, I won't be spending 500 quid on hydraulic upgrades to fix a slight squeak
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• #6269
That's the thing, I don't drag at all and really don't brake very hard in the first place - there's just no need to in London. That's why I'm surprised that the Hope sintered pads have glazed over. Bizarre.
If anything this is an excuse to give the brakes some tlc, so I'm going to order some 180mm centreline rotors and then give the pads another sand down and go from there. -
• #6270
Maybe they've never had the chance to bed in properly? The last sintered pads I had were crap until I got some really serious heat into them a few times
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• #6271
You must be new here!
;-)
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• #6272
No your a new...oh nevermind
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• #6273
Potentially, though I've tried the bed in process a few times after refreshing the pads.
I thought sintered were supposed to be grippiest? Or is that organic.
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• #6274
Not necessarily. Organic pads work great from cold and are quieter, but braking power falls off as they heat up. Sintered pads have much less bite from cold, they need to heat up first, but then they keep their power up to extremes and in the wet, so they also last longer. But they do howl a bit.
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• #6275
Interesting, thanks for the explanation. I'll persevere with the sintered pads in that case!
I'm proud of you too.