Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

Could I please get a close up of that routing?
From each side if possible?

It is even worst for my Lynskey Helix Pro as the rear brake hydro cable is externally routed...
Should have gone eTap (don't actually know if there are less etubes...)

Not immediately, as I'm in the UK and the bike is in Switzerland, but I'll try to remember to take some photos at the weekend.

Oh, and my other top tip is to make sure you're not using a 30mm crank spindle. If you are there's not enough space in the BB shell for the Di2 cable. That's why I ended up buying an Aldhus 24mm crankset and P2M power meter when I had a perfectly good Rotor 3D+ one I'd been planning on using.

Another day of riding eTap, some fiddling last night made it a bit better, I think there’s no question that Shimano is better overall but the convenience of no wires is a big plus.

Reassuringly expensive to upgrade to ASX is it not? New cassette driver for my Chris King hubs makes it quite interesting all round. I think I’ll stick with old-hat 11 speed.

When I saw the space in the BB cluster as well as the size & angle of the inner holes for the DT and rear stay, I thought it looked tight even with a standard 24mm crankset axle + BB protection sleeve...
I have a DA R9100 cranket so that should work just fine, need remember to route everything then install the cranks.

Could I please get a close up of that routing?
From each side if possible?

Those show the routing. Di2 cables attach to brake hoses with heatshrink, all going to and from a 3 port Junction A box on a Fourier mount.

Thanks @danstuff - that's the only routing I could think of.

Remove the headtube cable guides, get a 6mm Di2 grommet and run the cable through that hole then around the fork steerer and through the downtube.

The routing isn't the smoothest but you've done a great job with the heatshrink so I will use that idea to keep things tidier.

I have ordered a K-Edge junction box holder/spacer.

EDIT: My rear brake cable routing is also external. I am now remembering that I need to purchase hydro cable clamps...

Anyone wired up Di2 with a Bar end junction on a Superzero carbon handlebar?

It has a drilled hole for the di2 cable at on the right end, and a very generous channel on both sides for cables.
However, can't see how I can wire the left shifter to the right junction box without having the cable run externally, through both left and right channels to the right shifter?
This would mean that there would be a cable dangling between the two channels.

Am I missing a drilled hole somewhere?

I ran my cable to the shifter outside the bar and then to the other shifter inside.

How did you get the other cable inside?

Two ports on the bar end shifter, I ran one out of the hole and up to the right shifter (port is in the right bar end) then the second cable inside the bars and out the hole on the left side of the bars, then a cable back from the shifter into the 4-port function inside the frame.

That said, I have Pro Vibe bars so it might be different.

So.... now on my 2nd etap 2x11 rear derailleur, the 1st failed after 103 miles... 2nd one has done 260 miles and that too has now failed... fucking sick of it, the whole groupset is going back, at least if a cable snaps it can be repaired roadside, this has left me with a 2x1 bike twice now... bloody chuffin thing

That’s very bad luck.

What were the failures out of curiosity?

Rear derailleur stops responding, then suddenly springs back to life doing all the shifts I've tried to do, as if buffered in the memory... and is suddenly ever so slightly misaligned and clicks... then dead... then fine for a bit, and lo the cycle continues...

A long shot I know, but does anyone have a SM-PCE02 they'd be willing to loan me?

Failing that, are there any bike shops in south east London that are likely to have one who could do a simple Di2 customisation job for me?

Added: Don't think it's needed, just confusing error messages from the Shimano E-tube app. Looks like you can do firmware update and customisations using the SM-BCR2 battery charger. The previously unused port on my 3 port junction box isn't working though, which has delayed tonight's attempts at customisation.

I can't find the plastic plug for my seatpost. I know the minute I buy a new one, I'll find the old one. Is there a temporary hack I can use which isn't likely to drop the battery down the seat tube the first time I hit a bump? LBS reckoned tape. Someone else said foam packing. Not convinced but not tried it either.

Mine has been wrapped in bubble wrap and gaffer tape since day one

Rear derailleur stops responding, then suddenly springs back to life doing all the shifts I've tried to do, as if buffered in the memory... and is suddenly ever so slightly misaligned and clicks... then dead... then fine for a bit, and lo the cycle continues...

Got to be a problem with the shifter, hasn't it? Or did they replace that as well?

I've got drilled posts, bubble wrapped batteries, zip tied batteries. I think the funky metal clip on my Ergon split seatpost unfolded when I yanked on it so the battery has been sat in the seattube for the last x months. No drama. Just tip the bike upsidedown and shake...

I'll just try packing material then. Thanks.

@hippy The bloody circlip for in the di2 specific seatposts on the other bike got lost a while back. LBS wanted 15e for a replacement. Managed to bribe the workshop to get it for a couple of beers but it was the nail in the coffin for using that place (oh, that and the 5e for a brake olive + barb)

None of my bikes have used the proper Shimano case thing. They've all been dense foam or bubble wrap or just throw the fucker in there and go.

Can anyone with a bar end junction box pop or out and measure it for me? Width/height/length including with the cable running at 90 degrees to the junction box.

the hole starts at exactly 4cm on pro vibe alloy handlebars. this thing is tiny

Foam and electrical tape. I took a lot of force for me to remove this from my COBL GOBLR post the other day. I had another setup that used metal plate bolted to a split suspension seatpost but that became detached from the battery. The battery has sat in the Mason seattube for most of last year's races without issue.

EDIT: Dunno why this popped up again as unread. But have answer #2..

Hah. Thanks. In the end I wedged it in with foam and it's not moved (that I know).