All these bloody framebuilders eh

I’m using Hobbyweld oxygen. There’s a couple suppliers up here and one if them isn’t far from work so I tend to go there. They do a discount for cash too which is nice.

I got my propane from one of the hobbyweld places and I’m still on the first one I got. Think it’s a 13kg. I’m on my 5th or 6th oxygen and it’s pretty much empty now.

Awesome, thanks for the info @PhilDAS @M_V, what did you do in terms of hoses and regs etc? And flashback arrestors?

Oh yeah meant to mention that, would check if they were in good nick if there's any of that in what you found at work.

Regulators are good for X number of years I think after which they need to go back and be serviced, flashback arrestors might be similar. Sorry if that's teaching you to suck eggs.

I got torch, hoses, regs and flashback arrestors as a kit from here.

I got torch, hoses, regs and flashback arrestors as a kit from here.

Likewise

awesome, Thanks, ill tkae a look

yeah there was flashback arrestors and some hose, but it was ancient and all manky. So i lobbed it, seemed like it wasn't worth the whole painful death thing to save a few quid in hoses haha.

Also i managed to get myself an oxyfeul torch. It was found during a clean out at work and was gonna be thrown out...so i nabbed it. Its a BOC branded torch, i dont know how much its been used but it looks in ok knick. I dont really know how to tell tho.

If its faulty it'll be somewhere between inefficient and dangerous.

Everyone's favourite YouTuber got one recently and did some good at home safety checks. See here
.

Maybe see if BOC will refurb it as he does in the video.

Awesome, thanks for the heads up I'll take a look.

I do enjoy living, so I'll definetly try and make sure it's ok

I do enjoy living

Boast post

I put my trousers on one existential crisis a week, just like everyone else

well i've made some progress, front end and chainstays are mitred, cs to dropout is welded. I'm planning on changing up the sequence a bit on this one, welding the cs-bb mitre first. I always struggle with access there so it should be easier to do them first then st, then front end, then seatstays... we'll see.

Im off work on wednesday so will get it done then.. will post a pic or two

pictures

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ok, well i finished this frame, havent got many photos but its fixed gear and it clears like 2 inch tyres i think. Im happy, ended up using a yoke and bendy stays will get some better pictures if the sun ever comes out

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i dont own any tyres big enough to push the clearances on this frame, but theres easy 70mm clearance at yoke and stays

welding

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Those welds are beautiful! May I ask what filler / -dia. you're using?
Also I´d be super interested in the sequence of welding a frame. if U`re willing to share

Thanks!
These are 312 stainless filler, that's why they are so colourful. At least more colourful than a not stainless filler like er70s-6/2 etc. I do most of it with 1mm filler, then areas with lots of fill, i.e between st/dt or the underside of the ht-dt joint, ill do with 1.6mm filler. I find this helpful for areas like that, where im more likely to need it. and otherwise would be stuffing in a lot of 1mm filler.

At the moment i dont have a very specific sequence, but i do all the "tops" first. So I do as many parts that i can that are perpendicular to the central plane of the frame.

I find this fixes everything in place a bit, so that when you then start to weld the sides, it doesn't pull as much. However i do try to weld quite a bit in the jig as well because obviously the first welds pull it around as well.

Thanks a lot for your answer!
regarding Filler: My first trys have been with the same filler. I'm having a hard time utilizing 1.6mm since it`s so thick (Hard to handle for me in the already tight-spaces) Prob. just takes practice... I've ordered 1.2mm. rod to see if I can handle it better. (Shouldn't be a too much noticeable diff. tho...)

My first trys have been doing the sides first to affect the geo-relevant angles the least than first the angles which need less heat. --> should add less distortion...

That's what I've been doing. However I doubt that method because pretty much everyone seems to do the central plane first...

I haven’t welded but from what I’ve seen of framebuilders discussing it, doing one side first will pull the tube to the side and out of straight (obviously) but then moving on to the other side won’t pull with the same degree because the original weld has added rigidity so you still end up with the tube pulled slightly toward the original weld

My first trys have been doing the sides first to affect the geo-relevant angles the least than first the angles which need less heat. --> should add less distortion...

yeah i understand the idea behind this, for some reason i haven't found it to affect the angles that much tho. However if you get carried away and do some bits on the side too early, it really pulls hard. I have done this a few times and had to cold set a bit. easpecially early on, i.e st to bb junction can go very wrong if you get the sequence off

I find it really hard with to do most of it with the 1.6mm, feels very clunky. See how the smaller stuff feels, i find it helps a lot. However on the more acute bits the 1.6 is invaluable.

yeah i think the reason is that the tubes can roll quite easily inside the mitres and unstraighten the frame, but if your mitres are tight, it shouldnt be able to change the geo much as it would have to compress the tubes or something.

Amazing stuff, subbed!

Thanks :)

well im planning on getting it in for poweder on tuesday, im not decided on colour yet, have photoshopped some rough mockups to have a think

What do we reckon? im liking the blue or neon pink hah

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neon pink is a good look!