Home DIY

and it being loose on one would affect them all?

Have a look at the switch that controls them in that case.

I’m looking to replace this bathroom extractor fan. The one in the picture operates by pull cord so whatever replace it with should be similar but hopefully have a higher extraction rate. Could someone in the know please let me know which one to buy?

the code 11097 suggests the one I have is this although that says 15W and my one says 20W.

could I get this?

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#resolved

they were wired to the left hand switch, the middle one has always done nothing (makes sense, it was wired to nothing!) just wired broken ring to the unused middle one and all works fine

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I have some old bathroom floor tiles i'm planning on sticking onto some 18mm ply to make a coffee table.
The plan is to arrange them like this, butted up against each other (i.e. without grout - but maybe some kind of resin/PU coat on top..? not sure) as the local DIY place sells 80x40cm sheets of play which would fit perfectly.

My question is - how/what to use to bond the tiles to the ply? Usual tile adhesive, or as it's only decorative/not going to be under heavy strain would a no more nails type bodge do?

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Not sure if this is the right place, but the recent winds seems to have foiled my very temporary repair of a floppy fence.
It looks like the actual post has rotted below the soil so is just sitting on top now (yes I know, not in concrete). I shoved half a broom stick that was lying around down into the ground to kind of hold the fence up.

Looking for a bit more of a long term solution (not involving concrete), should I buy some lengths of wood and hammer into ground to support post? Alternatives? What materials should I look for?

If the wood has rotted, you should hammer in some supports that won't rot. Something like rebar fencing pins? It won't be half as strong as fixing it properly though.

Why the objection to concrete?

I built a fence around my garden in June using postcrete and its still as solid as the day it was built despite a number of mouth breathers crashing into it.

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You could try those spurs you hammer into the ground and put the post into, but the problem with those is that if they hit any rock under the surface they either stop or bend/break.

If you don't want annual repairs, just dig a hole and postcrete it in. My fence took 2 weekends of work, and that's only because our house was built on an old industrial site and I had to chisel rubble out of the way.

I have that extractor fan and it's not great, but before you replace it have you tried hoovering all the fluff off of it and out of the duct? I also replaced the concertina duct with a smooth rigid plastic one. All of that will improve matters substantially.

Valid points. The existing post has essentially disconnected at ground level to what was in the ground. I'm thinking something like the linked as solutions (either metal or concrete spur), with then i guess some postcrete around it (have never worked with concrete/postcrete etc, is this simple?)

https://www.diy.com/departments/forest-garden-concrete-repair-spur-w-75mm/5013053172780_BQ.prd

https://www.diy.com/departments/blooma-steel-fence-post-repair-spur-l-70mm-w-70mm/1622625_BQ.prd?rrec=true

How hard is it o replace radiators? I’ve done most things DIY over the years but never messed with central heating.

I’d just be removing old ones and replacing with modern column style ones. Depending on the BTU I’d aim for roughly the same size to minimise any pipe work needing done.

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Postcrete is so easy.

Dig hole about 12 to 18 inches deep, few handfuls of gravel at the bottom, get post square, pour in postcrete, pour in water, wait.

I used 2 scrap pieces of wood to prop up the post and keep it square while the postcrete hardened.

Building a fence is much much easier than I expected, the hard part was chiselling the rubble out of the ground to dig holes.

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What sort of drying time we talking? I keep meaning to sort a few fence related things out...

Can't offer any technical advice but our Panasonic Whisperlite extractor has been flawless for over a dozen years.

You guys in countries without freeze/thaw cycles... Depending on soil conditions and proximity to other buildings our fence posts should generally be buried at 1.5-2 m deep to keep from being popped within a couple years.

If they're old panel ones the tails will be in the wrong place for column radiators. Super-easy to change though using push-fit fittings (some people don't like push fits but they're easy to use) assuming you can lift the floor. Just rejig the piping to one of the tails and bring a new copper tail through the floor to your new location. Only issue I found was hanging big column radiators if they weigh a lot on your own....

Don't forget to drain your system before you disconnect things!

We used to have a corrugated iron roof on the garage, I drilled holes in it and riveted a solar panel onto said roof to charge the car that lived in the garage.

The company from whom I rent the garage replaced the roof with one made from glass-fibre and epoxy, and bonded the panel on. I just got home from a trip abroad and can see that the panel is now unattached, and has been flogged around by the wind.

What do I need to bond the panel onto the new roof that won't harm the roof, but will be effective at resisting the wind?

From memory, less than an hour

How far is the fan pushing the air? May need to be replaced the axial with a centifrugal. Look up the differences.

Edit missed the link - https://www.pelonistechnologies.com/blog/axial-vs.-centrifugal-fans

If you really want to avoid concrete there is a new expanding foam fence post system you could try assuming you can borrow / hire a ground auger.

Drill hole in ground, pop in post, pop in expanding foam plumb post and wait 15 mins for foam to dry.

You may want to be careful with a ground auger though when things go wrong it gets silly / hurty in a hurry.

https://youtu.be/BHCp6mMML4s

0.59

Thanks for the replies

@ffm I’ll try some more hoovering and look for straight duct.

@withered_preacher noted.

@lynx about 50-55cm in a horizontal straight line through a wall to the outdoors. The outside has three flaps that seem to move freely, albeit could do with some cleaning.

Duct tape.

I'm going to assume that the ground is sloping and you built a level fence.

But I like that the photo looks like you tried putting up a fence without a spirit level and thought "fuck it, probably close enough."