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• #952
I'm near Ruislip. Realistically I won't be in the workshop for the next 3 weeks but if you're happy to wait I can do it.
You nearly fooled me! Was about to comment on the neatness of your box joints and ask why you didn't dovetail then I saw what you did. Very neat and efficient method of construction not seen it done like that before and given the thickness of the stock it should be nice and stable.
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• #953
thanks, I try and design to my skill levels. I just ensured that the stock was accurately planed to the same dimension and it went together relatively easily. Would love to have the skill level to have cut dovetails but don't
PS watched a few of the Ishitani YouTube videos since you posted the link, not sure if it inspires me to go into the workshop or sell all my tools! amazing level of skills
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• #954
Dovetails are just a question of practice, as are most forms if carpentry, you can practice on offcuts, that's how I learnt to cut them.
There is a guy on YouTube called Dorian Bracht who does very detailed videos of him cutting increasingly complex joints
I can't find the straight dovetail one but this is interesting and uses the same basic principles.
As far as ishitani goes he not only has had a lot of practice but is a talented bastard.
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• #955
That's a nice table. You've glued square lengths together offset by the width?
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• #956
thanks. pretty much. I think (it was 10 years ago) I left them slightly long and planed/sanded them flush. I think the gluing stage was a bit stressful...
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• #957
I think it’s pretty brilliant actually.
Did you glue everything in one go or one ‘plank’ at a time? -
• #958
thanks again. I did the top in one go and each side individually (biscuit jointed) Then glued one side to the top and finally the last side. It sounds easy now (it was relatively) but I remember at the time there were a few iffy moments...
This was the third one I built, the first two being coffee tables and made out of 125x30 planks but with the same principle -
• #959
I think you're really underselling yourself there, that's really good work.
I'll drop you a PM re/ what I'm after, more than happy to pay for materials and postage.@Bobbo Thanks for the offer, depending on my chat with @pryally, I may also take you up on the offer.
Now though, you got me looking up bandsaws just for kicks :)
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• #960
Can't go wrong with an axminster tools one... I picked up a bench top hobby range one for £50 on facebook marketplace...
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• #961
Since thinking about making my own sayas, my thoughts have expanded to wood working in general, inspired by what I've seen here.
As a complete beginner, what's a good starting point to getting into woodwork with a limited space and limited budget.
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• #962
Depends on what you want to make, but I'd always advise starting with hand tools.
Some real begins are to be had at vintagetoolshop.com
For the very basics you want:
- Chisels probably a 1", 1/2" and 1/8" bevel edge.
- A plane best to go for a #5 "jack" (as in jack of all trades) will smooth and joint.
- A saw, this is where it gets difficult as you can use a disposable job from Screwfix etc. but you will struggle with cutting fine stuff. However traditional western saws are designed to do very specific jobs. Therefore I would recommend a type of Japanese saw called a ryoba that can do pretty much everything, be warned they are very sharp and cut on the pull stroke but can be used for pretty much everything.
- Work bench, there is no way of hiding this but a workbench is one the most important tools you have as a woodworker. There are many different styles and many heated arguments had on the topic of benches. But work holding is essential.
Look around at videos on YouTube there are LOADS of guys churning out woodworking videos check out:
- Paul Sellers, old school cabinet makers will teach you the basics very well
- Samurai Carpenter
the guy is full of himself and a bit of a dick IMO but he is good at showing you what you can do with wood - Matt Estlea
Have a look at the above and let me know how you get on. P.S woodworking as a hobby is a potentially expensive rabbit hole.
- Chisels probably a 1", 1/2" and 1/8" bevel edge.
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• #963
Yes, I tend to pick hobbies than burn holes in my pockets.
In terms of what I want to make, little tables, chairs for the kids, then progress maybe depending onto bigger tables and maybe shelves.
Thanks for the info, I think that will keep me busy through the weekend.
On the topic of workbench, main question is where to store it when not in use let alone what kind to go for.
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• #964
On the topic of workbench, main question is where to store it when not in use
there are portable versions that you can make and clamp to something:
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• #965
That mini table top workbench looks amazing. But making it without the power tools...
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• #966
Its doable without power tools. Any decent lumber supplier will be able joint and dimension the stock for you (for a small fee). Then if you're doing it sans power tools swap the sliding dovetail for a dado for simplicity, but you can cut sliding dovetails by hand it will just take aaaaaages, and require a considerable level of both skill and anal retentive attention to detail.
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• #967
Just bought myself a 100kg anvil and all the bits I need to build myself a gas forge. I now have the following to do list:
- drive to Lincoln to pick up anvil
- Buy mig welder and learn how to use it.
- Build forge
- Speak to accountant to see if it would be taking the piss to put this down as a business expense in my carpentry business (almost certainly yes)
- Break the news to Mrs Bobbo that I have a new hobby.
- drive to Lincoln to pick up anvil
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• #968
Only two weeks late, but here's some things that may be of interest from my many hours of research for various obscure ideas and projects.
https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/Model-Boat-Timber-Wood-Sheets.html
https://www.britishhardwoods.co.uk/thin-wood-boards-european-oak.html
Ostermaan also do solid wood edging in quite a few timbers, but it's only 45mm wide and 5mm thick so may not be that much use.
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• #969
Not me but my daughter and Son in Law are starting up a small craft business, starting with beautiful hand crafted pens and some other bits, their website is here http://www.workshopweasel.com/
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• #970
Speak to accountant to see if it would be taking the piss to put this down as a business expense in my carpentry business (almost certainly yes)
Surely every carpenter has to forge some wood every once in a while?
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• #971
I had my first go of MIG welding tonight. It's easy to produce something acceptable compared to TIG but I think the settings might take some time to master. There should be some good guides on YouTube. Good luck!
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• #972
I can stick/arc weld but obviously MIG adds about 3 more layers of complexity to stick welding. Had a look at some of the stuff on YouTube but it's all so dry and boring! Apparently you can do something called spray welding though, where you turn everything right up it's messy (hence the name) but quick and effective. This sounds interesting and suits my needs as nothing I do will need to be pretty.
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• #973
I'm hoping I can claim it's for making custom hinges etc.
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• #974
I thought spray welding was where powdered metal is gravity fed into the flame of a gas torch and which then deposits/sprays said metal onto the surface the torch is pointed at. Used for building up material where it has worn away. Bearing registers and the like.
Edit: I've just now learnt about spray arc welding now too, as you were
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• #975
boards machined up for prototype - American black walnut and American white oak because this is what I had lying around in the workshop. It should give a reasonable contrast on the edge but the final choice of Tulip wood and cherry should be nicer?
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could do it for you but I would need to post it, I'm up in Manchester. I've got a bit of oak/Sapele/ Tulip wood/American black walnut on the shelves anything else I would have to order in.
I'm not a professional like Bobbo but do have table saw, bandsaw, planer/thicknesser, etc and love an excuse to get into the workshop...
photo of my best project attached
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