Home DIY

With 12.5 you can score and snap it but if your butting the sheets then it can be problematic as you can end up with gaps and defeat the point of paying all that money for the wediboard.

I usually ping a chalk-line and then cut it with an older slightly blunt handsaw, but I'm pretty good at cutting a straight line.

You can use a circular saw or even a plunge saw but bear in mind you need to set your depth accurately, also remember that the top layer of the board is covered in silicates therefore it will dull your blade relatively quickly and dust is a problem as silica it ain't too good for you (COPD isn't nice).

I'm assuming that you want to board out the framing you put up. To do this I would:

1. Fix the board to the front of the frame.

2. Using the left side of the frame as a guide run a handsaw (you will need to "nose" the saw through the material or start it off with a padsaw / multitool)

3. Use the offcut on the return by offering it up and marking the depth then cutting it. But when fixing, fix it so that the factory edge is on the outside giving an arrow straight corner

Did similar - but the tool was much smaller and lighter, about 12kg. 2 or 3 times I couldn’t get it out anymore!

I used one of those to break up a concrete plinth about 1m3, back-breaking! I think half the issue is the chisel isn’t locked so that to position it you end up having to lift the thing higher than you’re expecting to. Fun though!

That is a good idea, I’ll have to see if I can re-jig my panel layout to make it work (the shower has a raised base that I want to line and I was going to run the side panel to the floor). Alternatively I’ve got an old tenon saw which might work nicely if guided along the chalk lines. Thanks!

Bit late to this but can't seem to find out from the website but is the linseed paint for external use or internal only? Scratch that, can be, looks like good stuff, tres expensive but if it's paint and forget then well worth it!

Both indoor and outdoor

The paint is more expensive by the litre, but often cheaper when it comes to surface covered. You need to spread it very thinly and a few times, it's not like modern colours where you just get as much on as quick as you can

Not sure if this is the right place, but what would be the best way of repairing/strengthening an aluminium tube that’s bent and split? At the edges of the bend?

It’s part of an TP toys explorer climbing frame and it’s on one of the lower legs.

Couple of options, 1) reform to correct shape and use metal epoxy to strengthen
2) fibre epoxy repair tape to wrap section, 3) find appropriate size metal ‘collar’ and attach it somehow.

I do have some extra batons left over, good shout

I know it’s kind of anti-DIY but does anyone know what a reasonable price is for having someone come swap out my existing bath taps for new bath shower mixer taps? Would try my hand on it but we kind of need the shower to work right away...

Don't think they have it in stock, but they claim to be able to get things.. https://www.woodgreentimber.com/Hardwood-Timber.php

Maybe replace entire tube?
Or option 2 with added splint of some sort to maintain rigidity and strength.

@Bobbo & @rhowe thanks both, will check them out.

Next question, I'm remodelling my bathroom at the moment with a walk in shower. Should I get a standard type extractor that exits through the wall, or an inline one that's in the loft?

Who was posting on here with some knowledge of upvc windows?

Inline every time. They're quieter and extract a much greater volume of air / moisture. Also worth considering hooking it up to a humidistat instead of a timer as this will solve many, many problems you may have with moisture in the house.

Do you already have your valves? Many have reversible cartridges which means you can swap hot and cold feeds.

Dredge from four years ago. Anyone used an asbestos test kit? Got a reputable website?

Also, masks for removing as asbestos... What standard should they be?

I've never used an asbestos test kit as I'd always call in specialist.

Specialists have air quality monitoring equipment that they use before during and after work is carried out. Asbestos clings to surfaces and doesn't degrade so a small amount will hang around in you house for along time.

You need a lot more than a mask to keep you safe. Your shoes shouldn't have laces, you should also wear disposable overalls. Masks should be FFP3 rated although this won't matter at all unless you know the mask you are wearing is the correct fit for your face and that it hasn't slipped.

I've attached the HSE advice sheet for self employed contractors who carry out non licensed azzy removal, it is worth a read, but as I said I'd always pay someone who knows their shit to carry out the removal and have actually walked away from jobs in the past when clients didn't want to pay for this.

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• em6.pdf

Sorted now, plumber came back this afternoon and made new pipework up.

Cheers, that's really useful.

Have a straight edge, 2.4m flooring level thing if you need it.

Also solved - with careful scoring along a long level, craft knifing through the fibres and foam, then cracking over an offcut length of wastepipe. Thanks though, more questions to follow...

Could be me, if it's repairs to them.

I think I might need to enlist ‘wisdom of the ancients’ here.
Dry fitted tray to alcove, spot on. Had to slide and shimmy it, which is fine on a dry surface but I can see it causing a real mess with mortar.
The thing weighs 39kg and isn’t quite smooth enough to use glass lifters confidently with.
Any ideas?

Other forums have people sliding them in on ice cubes (I’d need massive 25-30mm ones to fill recess), copper pipes or wooden battens, or lowering it down from vertical on rope/tape. None of it seems particularly ideal for one man and recently caesarean’d wife!

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Air wedge. Even a small one can lift 60+kg a couple of inches

Other forums

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