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I am about to take a huge leap (for me at least) as I am about to start working on my car myself as I want to learn to fix and maintain it myself and really want to start learning about practical mechanics (I only know the theory for now if it makes sense).
The first thing I am about to do is replacing all the hoses and clamps (and some of the housings bolted to the block) of the cooling system on my E30 ; found an exploded view and ordered all of the relevant parts directly on BMW classic website (very useful by the way), and waiting for a jack and jackstands to arrive.
Just to know, it might be a dumb question, but is there any specific thing to know when fitting clamps and rubber hoses, like about tightness for example? I believe there shouldn't be too tight to damage the rubber of the hose, but how tight then?
I also assume that cleaning the surface on which the hoses fit is required, what can be used for that? Sandpaper, metallic brush (when in fitting is aluminium), etc.?
I will of course empty the coolant etc.
Any particular comment would be appreciated :) thanks in advance! -
Is that an audiophile speaker system on the bonnet?
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Fixing your own cars is great, its satisfying and will save you a Ton of money. If you have ever had the experience of working in a garage (i have and it was a main dealer) you will soon realise you are paying £75 p/h for some real animals to work on your car.
In terms of your current job in hand it depends on what clamps you are using - if you are using Jubilee clips buy decent ones, the cheap ones are crap. If you are getting them from BMW they will probably be the correct size for the job. I don't know much about BMWs so not sure what type they use but you may need some sort of crimp tool.
You shouldn't find there to be a massive need to sand down any pipes, just a clean up should be sufficient. Don't over tighten any plastic housings, you should be able to find torque settings online. There is probably some sort of breather screw up near the heat exchanger to assist filling the cooling system fully.
Remember google/youtube is your friend, you will sometimes get mega pissed off with Rusty old bolts, you will cut and bang your hands regularly, you will be laying under a filthy old car trying to squeeze your hand into tiny gaps, you'll sometimes be at breaking point trying to reline up a steering control arm, you'll always need an additional part but the shops are all now closed, you will ache like shit the next day (maybe thats just me) but once its all over and you can stand back and think you have saved a few hundred quid its all worth it.
Its also worth getting yourself a Manufacturer specific Code reader, really handy bit of kit for around £30. -
Thanks for the reply! not really anything to do with saving money as the first intention is to try understand better how it works (and why it is not working sometimes), being able to react on my own when there is something occuring and being able to repair.
All clamps/hoses were ordered directly from BMW online with the support of an exploded view of the cooling system (the website is very detailed and handy).
I believe there are only screw clamps so there should not be any crimping involved ; just for peace of mind and while I am at it I ordered also some of the small housings bolted to the block because I thought as I fresh up the system why not, will definitely be careful with the bolts during disassembly etc.
Made some research online before, have bought a RTA (french book for repairs, parts references etc.) and studied a bit but was pissed off when I got it back from the garage last time with same problem (coolant leak) than when I dropped it there (probably not their fault but still) and decided to take the leap and try to do it myself.
Will probably do it this week or next week -
Can't go far wrong with Halfords advance stuff. Some proper good prices on there at the moment too by the looks of it too. I have one of these little things for small fiddly hard to reach areas and its one of the most useful thing I think i've bought - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bahco-2058S26-Ratchet-Socket-26-Piece/dp/B000Y8TIMY/ref=asc_df_B000Y8TIMY/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=231905005622&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5594671175249838270&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006886&hvtargid=pla-423157082615&psc=1&th=1&psc=1
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This tool set, with lifetime guarantee Halfords is great value
Agree too, what can you buy these days that has a lifetime warranty. I bought a couple of Sealey Premier socket sets, wanting 6 sided sockets and don't think they match up to the Halfords Advanced stuff. Seen on various forums too people claiming the Halfords stuff is made by the same manufacturers of much higher priced stuff.
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Here's the oil circuit for the M96:
What's going on there is that the engine has three sumps - one per head (as this is a flat/boxer engine) and one central/crankcase sump.
Each head has a scavenge pump that feeds back to the central sump via a swirl pot.
The central sump has the oil pickup, drawn on by the engines oil pump, which is driven by the (infamous) IMS (intermediate shaft).
Porsche, for the X51 performance version of the X51 introduced a dual stage head scavenge pump - literally stacking another stage on top of the standard one, with both driven by a common shaft, itself driven by the exhaust cam. The second stage scavenges the other end of the head from the first stage, in order to prevent oil pooling under braking that is not returned to the central sump.
The X51 package also has a higher gated baffle in the central sump to (try!) to keep the oil pickup submerged during high-G.
Despite this, the M96 can still encounter oil starvation on the track - the pickup is uncovered and oil supply stutters, and whilst this may not be immediately fatal it dramatically shortens the life of the engine.
I am considering the following:
If you'll forgive the deeply amateur diagram, what is going on is:
Each head has a dual-stage scavenge, evacuating oil from either end of the heads. The oil is not being returned to the central sump - it's going to the dry sump tank, which features a centrifugal de-foaming path for the oil.
The original oil pump is now drawing oil from the central sump which is going straight into the dry sump tank. It's been turned into a scavenge pump, basically - hence my question earlier today.
A new oil pump is stacked on top of the original oil pump, both driven by the IMS. I'd need to make a new cover plate for the oil pump for this. This new pump takes de-foamed oil from the dry-sump tank and routes it into the oil filter, and thence the block/existing oil galleries.
The engine would have five scavenge pumps, four in the heads and one in the central sump for the main bearings and piston oil squirters.
It would have one pressure pump/oil pump, added by modifying the standard oil pump to add a second stage.
What say you LFGSS- insanity? Or would this work?
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Part 5 finally. If you haven't watched from the start a great little series.
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Day off today so blast out into the Cotswolds in the GTV with daughter. Ended up at the classic motor hub in Bibury.
Absolute gem of a place , people incredibly personable seeing as we were obviously just a couple of petrol heads in a semi classic car .
But the stock they had . Oh my oh my . Google it but here are a couple of pics . ( my GTV in one obviously just for scale! )
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Car appreciation... the aesthetics, the engineering, etc
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Golden rule of cobra replicas: single roll hoop or none. All else fails.