Any question answered...

Anyone know if there's a cassette tool like this, that takes an allen key in the back instead of a socket?

https://www.zyrofisher.co.uk/rockshox/products/detail/RS8012003

http://www.icetoolz.com/ec99/rwd1111/product.asp?prodid=09C5

"Use with 8 mm hex key wrench"

I'm after a new PMP seatpost clamp bolt, it's some proprietary design. Do PMP even exist as a company still? Anyone know the importer?

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Cheers, Looks good, I'll keep it in mind, but only want single-sided, ie. Shimano though (trying to get it as light as possible).

Drill a hole through one of the spanner flats, so you can thread an Allen key through

What's the best security skewer, post bolt, top cap at the mo?

Is it still a toss up between pinhead and pitlock?

Does anyone know what size p-clip I'm likely to need to attach the upper mounting arms (so attaching to the seat stays) of a rack to my genesis equilibrium? 16mm seems likely, but if anyone knows would appreciate confirmation..

I'm currently committed to pitlock, about a dozen years in. Never had an issue but my bikes don't usually spend large amounts of time in high risk areas. Any system can be defeated obviously but this system helps to dissuade the casual thief.

Ortlieb panniers I think (maybe T20). And the bolts they use on B&M dynamo lights.

https://bikerumor.com/2019/03/13/review-uniors-tiny-multi-purpose-pocket-lockring-tool-saves-the-day/

Great for touring and can't just slide the freehub body off like on DT Swiss etc

Don't own any of that so I should be ok to leave it behind. #marginalgains

Nah, I looked at NBT type tools but I still want them to use allen key so I can use them for disc rotors.

Actually their photos show it for disc rotors too. I'm not sure I'd trust it to do them.

EDIT: Some fucker has done the maths... maybe it will be fine.

"Assume a 170 mm crank arm and approximately 1:1 gearing (e.g., 34T front and 32T rear). 40 Nm / 0.170 m == 235 N == 52 lbf. So that end is really easy to do on a pedal.

Let’s check the other end: the plastic arm looks like it extends almost out to the edge of the cassette, so let’s assume 50 mm radius. 40 Nm / 0.050 m == 800 N. Let’s assume the plastic part is 40 mm long, 5 mm thick, 20 mm across, made of a common non-filled but relatively tough plastic like acrylic, point load on the end. Rough math says the total deflection of the beam will be well, well less than 1 mm.

The derailleur hanger can probably suffer 800 N (180 lbf) along that axis without too much concern.

So, as a first guess: should work fine."

Someone used to sell something similar called a cassette cracker but that only worked on steel frames.

I'm looking for a set of handlebars similar to the Nitto Albatros in 31.8 and preferably in black.

Can anyone recommend a model?

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On One Mungo?

Could even look to flip some cruiser-type bars around?

Or BLB Fubars?

Or even the Mike, if you don’t mind a little variation on the theme.

https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/HBOOMB/on-one-mike-handlebar

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Possibly some of the Humpert options on SJS?

Are Veloce 10 speed ergo shifters (powershift model, which I believe is the latest) capable of working with a triple chainset/front derailieur?

Even if the derailieur is Shimano (FD-4403 as its the only thing I had in the spares bin)?

I believe they'll be fine. Just thought I'd check before I dismantle it all.

If not I'll probably just stick a down tube shifter on.

EDIT: yes it works, but its not as nice as 2x. Shimano FD was a bit bent. So put a Suntour XCE on instead. Worked fine. Probably going on my MTB now instead.

I'd go for Pitlock over pinhead anyday.

Not tried the others but use Hexlox and happy with them so far

What's that black extra monitor thing on his desk?

why does my front disc rub on my caliper under heavy load uphill? weak wheels??

Flex

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