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If you get an R600 climbing switch and gut the internals you can solder flying leads onto the contacts, like this:
So if you connect the blue lead to the black lead, it shifts down, red to black it shifts up. I've then chopped a Di2 cable in half and soldered each half to each pair of leads, so there's an 'up' Di2 cable and a 'down' Di2 cable. Each cable goes into a Junction B box, and each Junction B box has two Di2 cables going into it, both of which have switches soldered onto them. On the base bars I'm using Cateye remote buttons (now discontinued, part number 1699200) and on the extensions I'm using some round rocker switches. The soldering is fiddly but there's nothing intrinsically difficult about it.
Obviously everything upstream of the hacked R600 shifter, while it uses Di2 cables and junction boxes to connect everything together, isn't E-tube. They're just dumb switches soldered onto Di2 cables.
Brommers-
Thanks for taking the time to share. This is just the info I needed for my plans. Only thing I couldn't see was 2 black leads (earth?) in the picture above.
What was the requirement for wiring using Di2 cables after the climbing shifter? Just for ease of splitting using the junction b?
I had thought I could wire two sensors for the up and two for the down directly to each side of the climbing switch in parallel. Essentially a DIY blip and clic for the base bar and extension running into the switch.
Last question, is the 3 or 5 port then redundant connecting into the Junction B in the frame?
onyerbike
🙏