Any question answered...

Mash Steel frame?

I can recommend the "Hip&Trendy Downtown Toronto Suite" in airbnb - not exactly downtown but clean and friendly and good transit connections.

This?

Looks really great actually. High BB, steep STA and loads of tyre clearance.

Can't see an RRP for the uk. I suspect hipster tax. I'm not sure I'd pay £400 more for this than a Fuji Track frame.

http://www.marinoni.qc.ca/html/pista.html
Bob Jackson
Hilary Stone
https://www.benscycle.com/milwaukee-bicycle-co-cream-city-track-frameset/mkepackage_milwaukeebicycleco_creamcity_20834/product

The Marinoni Pista looks good. That'll take 28mm tyres?

I owned a BJ Vigorelli. Very nice but road geometry. The Milwaukee thing looks similar (with awful branding).

Thanks for the suggestions. And reminding me to keep checking Hilary Stone's listings.

Cheers, not sure about the Marinoni, typical Canadian site short on info.

Yeah, exactly that. Goes for $850 though. Or £899 if you’re in the UK
https://www.bricklanebikes.co.uk/mash-steel-frameset-black-chrome

I'm wondering if it's actually the wheelbase length that gives the feeling slowness on a bike or if it's really the distance from the closest point of contact on the tire, to the bb. What I mean is, that if your tire is tukt and has a fair pressure, your bike will feel fast no matter the wheelbase?

Slowness? There is a difference between easy of steering from straight-ahead and how hard you can turn at a given lean angle. Rake and trail and BB height matter for this.

I’m beyond the limits of my understanding in this if I’m honest but have been told (by a professional bike designer) that much of a bikes handling characteristics come down to the distance between BB and front axle (or front tyre contact point?).

There are so many factors though. For instance this designer likes to increase wheelbase and decrease head angle and counter this with wider bars and shorter stems.

tl:dr It’s witchcraft.

Sounds plausible and explains why Richard S's Instagram posts are so mystical (and why I don't always understand what he wants me too understand or not).

Thanks!

Yeah, wheelbase, front centre, head angle, trail, rake, stem length all conspire to give steering characteristics. Its complex

If it were unbranded and £500 (and not sold by BLB) i’d be all over it.

yeah, i might risk the ES600... especially as they are cheaper than the A600, but still have the metal bearing gubbins. just seems odd I can literally only find one proper review.

Did you try these in the end? How'd you get on?

smartwatches, you use them? i am searching for your opinions on a good "cheap" one with map display and message and call warning (whatsapp and the likes) budget 200 chf...

Where in London can I buy 45x45 aluminium profile?

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/tubing-struts/3900048/

Yes I did get a pair of ES600 and, like that one review says they do hang slightly more upsidedown. Which I found a bit annoying, especially on an off-road ride. No other issues. I have now moved them to my track bike and bought a pair of A520s for the main bike.

I keep meaning to take a pic contrasting ES600, A520 and A600 angle of dangle.

I can’t be home to receive a delivery so was looking for somewhere bricks and mortar that I can visit to buy when convenient

You can collect instore.

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/generalDisplay.html?id=our-services/branch-network

Sweet hadn’t realised. Muchas gracias

Looking for a GPX that'll take me from Greenwich to Hastings for a ride this Saturday.

Does anyone know of a nice, low traffic route?

@PhilDAS fancy it?

https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/251801/

Maybe one in here (also a great thread)

Or in routes database...

@anothersam is The King of the London - Hastings ride.

Feeling particularly slow today.

I'm after a pully tap / extra long tap for chasing out an M8 x 1.25 thread. Ideally ~15mm long.

Is this "right-hand thread" right? Or will it give me a reverse thread? My thread is a normal righty-tighty that you screw a bolt clockwise into:

http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=112898406079&category=64819&pm=1&ds=0&t=1558349838000&ver=0

That is the correct item for your needs.
If the thread is not too badly damaged and in the absence of a tap I would use a spare bolt with a couple of longitudinal slots cut along the thread to collect and cut away any burrs on the thread.

https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-tap-from-a-bolt/