• Oops, yeah 70 head and 74 seat angles.

    Remeasured the Hummus and the effective tt is than I thought at 595mm. That still places it between the S and M Lowsides though. Actual tt is 565mm which is only 3mm longer than the XS Lowside!

    Reach on the Hummus is just a shade over 400mm.

    If I stretch the effective tt out to 620mm (between M and L on the Lowside) it'll give me an actual tt of just a hair off 600mm but because of the short headtube the reach would be 470mm which is considerably more than the Hummus but it is between L and XL on the Lowside which might not be too bad since I am 6'2 a lot of which I think is in my upper body.

    I could lengthen the steerer, I've plugged and sleeved handlebars before with my stick welder but I think really for a steerer it'd want tig welding (and cleaning up on a lathe).

    I reckon with the moto bars it might be ok as is though and actually, I had about 20mm of spacers under the stem when I had the fork I'll be using on my 1x1 frame (110mm headtube) so I can probably gain a bit of headtube length by running no spacers. The bars won't move but I don't think they need to and it'd make the reach figure a bit more...'normal'.

  • Love the stem, it's a strong look, would love to have a go at one. Really encouraging to see you cracking on with another frame too. Is it Rattlecad you're using for the drawings? I'm stuck with having to work out all the mitre angles by hand from the info you can get from the free version of BikeCad, as £300 for the Pro version is a bit rich for me.

  • Cheers.

    The drawings I posted were from Coreldraw. I have a blagged copy but I’m sure there’s something free out there that’ll do much the same job.

    With my first frame I drew something up in the free bikecad then imported that into Corel and laid lines over the top to work out the angles. This time I just drew it straight in Corel.

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