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  • rip it out and start again.

    Given the half arsed way the rest was put together, this seems like the best choice by a mile.

  • You fucking keep peeling tiles you'll be fucked! Jesus

  • Thing is, you start removing tiles that are easy, then you get to the ones that are well and truly stuck down. I like to use an sds chisel to remove tiles if you are stripping the lot, it's the fastest way I've found.

  • And slowly but surely the tears start to flow

  • There’s a leak through to the ceiling below, further destruction is inevitable!

  • Current plan is for me to take out that whole side wall and the bathroom sub floor, then assess tray structure, shower rear/side tiling and whatever’s underneath the subfloor for further action. I have that cheapo Titan SDS+ drill ready to go if anything resists!

  • I have an extractor fan that I fitted in the bathroom many years ago.

    It has an isolator, and a switch to turn it on and off.

    Running to the fan itself are two wires, Live and Neutral, in a single cable.

    This is relevant because I have bought a new fan, wired it up, and whilst it emits a faint hum it doesn't actually do anything.

    I've got Live and Neutral (and an unused Earth) running to the fan, the instructions say it needs Live, Neutral and Switched Live.

    I tried using a small jumper to connect the live to the switched live, but nothing happened.

    How do I make the extractor extract?

  • We live in a 1930s mid terrace place. The original front doors on our street were one over two panels as opposed to the more common one over three. I've always wanted one but it was fairly low on the list of priorities. As luck would have it, on Friday, a saw the gent from two doors up with his front door off the hinges! Assumed he had taken off to paint it. I ran into him this evening and he proudly showed me his new PVC door! A quick handshake and I was off down the street with this beauty. It'll be a slow burner of a project. Planning on a repaint with some new Banham locks and furniture.
    Still can't quite believe I found an original door. Heavy as fuck!


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  • The switched live needs to come from the bathroom light pullcord. It'll turn the fan on when the light is turned on then a timer will run the fan for a few minutes after the light is switched off.

  • Pull a 3 core cable through with the existing 2 core & wire it with a switched live?

  • The switched live needs to come from the bathroom light pullcord. It'll turn the fan on when the light is turned on then a timer will run the fan for a few minutes after the light is switched off.

    The fan has it's own switch, outside the bathroom, that then passes (via a cable, obvs) through a three pole isolator and into the bathroom.

    I don't really want to link it to the lighting circuit, which at the moment is completely separate.

    I can't see a reason why supplying live to both L and T with neutral to the N won't work?

  • Pull a 3 core cable through with the existing 2 core & wire it with a switched live?

    I think I'd have to chase a new cable in. Also, I can't see how that'd help if the fan won't work with the L jumpered to the T. But I know very little about this stuff.

  • Score!
    lead paint blah blah blah

  • Be careful then!

  • Of what?

  • I made a super safe test cable and confirmed that the fan works fine with l/sl jumped- so the cable in the wall has mysteriously stopped conducting power.


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  • Did it work before?
    Magnets.

  • The fan has it's own switch, outside the bathroom, that then passes (via a cable, obvs) through a three pole isolator and into the bathroom.

    How is the 3 pole isolator wired, if you have only 2 cores at the fan?

    You don't need one, as far as I'm aware, if you're using an independent switch.

    [Edit] https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1164118/Xpelair-C4s.html?page=8#manual

    The instructions suggest you leave the switched live terminal disconnected

  • Snap

    I used mine to power the actuator in one of out heating zone valves while I faffed around with the controller.


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  • I've solved the mystery by a) getting my multi-meter out of the garage and b) blowing the dust off the sticker inside the old fan.

    Turns out that I bought an SELV fan all those years ago, and there is a transformer in the ceiling void that steps the voltage down to 12v.

    Fucksticks. I'm going to make removing the transformer the electricians problem I think, unless anyone knows of a cunning method of resolving this?

  • I stupidly bought a fridge that is the perfect size for the space it's going in when the doors are closed. And 3cm too narrow as the doors open. Not my finest hour.

    Apart from putting it elsewhere or getting a different one then I can try to widen the gap it's in a bit... i.e. cutting out about 3cm of plaster/brick from the outside edge of what was a fireplace (oven to the left).

    Is that doable without it being a complete faff?


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  • Is it plasterboard, or

    complete faff

    plaster on brick?

  • Can you fit it slightly further foward so that it doesn't foul on the wall when it opens? So you would only have to trim off the edge of the worktop

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Home DIY

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