Cannondale Aficionados / Owners

I guess I'll stick to Rock Shox. :)

I might replace the cheapish MT500 brakes (deore?) over time. This bike is a milestone for me: untill today I only rode 26" bikes (and in a way I hope it won't mean I'll neglect my modernish Ritchey P Team).

Still not sure about the look of the negative stem, but it's made the bike so much more fun to ride. Stack felt massive compared to caad10 and system six.

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Or have a working suspension fork

🔫🔫

Is it possible to fit a lefty (1.5" headtube) to an older Cannondale with 1.56" headtube?

Instinctively I'd say yes if the steerer tube diameter are the same (or the inside diameter of the headset bearings) but just don't know.

There's a fossilized lefty on eBay, I'm mad/enthousiast enough to attempt a revival Howard style. But if it doesn't fit my f1000 then I'll leave it :)

All lefties have clamps designed to mate with 1.56" steerers except the new single crowned occhio which has a 'normal' tapered steerer.

So yes, any lefty - as long the vertical clamp spacing is tall enough - will fit your frame. And because way back they all used the same head tube regardless of frame size it's easy to fit an old lefty to an old frame - the only thing you need is the steerer and you don't need to worry about spacers and whatnot.

If you really want one I'd look out for one that works! Something from 2008 onwards It's probably impossible to get a really old, really broken one working again now.

Tx!

It's a 2000 one, so it has to go really cheap.

I'd say it needs at least needle bearings / races... It would be a curiosity thing inspired by your fork fix. Failure rate: uncomfortably high ;)

I agree it's to get a whole bike/fork, but I had little luck on eBay. Too big/won't ship, pulled off eBay, dents and they are neigh impossible to find in NI.

I'd say it needs at least needle bearings / races...

You could sink a lot of money and time in to that :)

Hah indeed! Time is ok I'm not in a hurry but non-use spending £100s on it.

Working ones go for a bit of £££ but if it is all snattered inside I may have to ceremonially bury it.

Ive finlly got round to putting my Hollowgram Si crank arms into my caad10 disc frame.
I've follow this exactly. ordered a new spacer kit so all spacers are correct. https://www.cannondale.com/~/media/Files/PDF/Dorel/Cannondale/Common/Support/Accessories/SISL2_Road_Crankset_Instr_1012.ashx

I've used 3 0.5mm shims before the wave washer. All torqued up proper with torque wrench.
But on the non drive side the shims behind the wave washer dont look like they are tight up against it. I can get a fingernail in and wiggle them around a bit.
Is this normal or am I missing something?

Post a photo

Tried to show it here. I would have thought being able to wiggle the washers means it's not correct?

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should the wave washer flatten out completely against the 2mm bearing shield?

some more info to help clarify, the part of the wave washer that is concave, as in curving out towards the bb shel, its touching against the 2mm bearing shield. The part of the wave washer thats curving out away from the bb shell, its still got a bit of movement in it. But the part that touches the bearing shield doesnt have any movement.

This from the pdf "Tighten-non drive the
fixing bolt to 40 Nm, (30 FtLbs) and check to see if wave washer
is properly preloaded (still has slight wave and not loose). If it is
loose, remove the crankarm and add another shim. Up to 3 shims
can be used. Add shims as needed."

It still has a wave but not sure if there should be any movement at any part of it.

I dunno.

Is everything torqued up OK?
Is there no lateral slop in the cranks?
Is it silent when sprinting?

If yes to all it's fine :)

1. yes
   2.no
   3 I'll find out tomorrow...
   
   

Yeah I think its ok. Just coming from bsa and shimano hollowtech ii to Cannondales absurd set up. It's slightly unsettling seeing gaps like that!

You should not be able to get one of the 0.5mm transparent spacers into a gap in the wave washer.

With mine (and all bb30) I normally get it to the point at which it pretty much binds, and take out a shim at a time until it spins and leave it there...

Ok, think I'll try it with 4 shims and see how it looks.

A bit more Google has enlightened me. Will leave it as it is since there's no side to side play.

You should never need more than 3 shims

Yep, I'm not adding anymore. Infact I going to take one out and see how freely the cranks spin. They spin ok with 3 but maybe feel a little tight.

the wave washer should not flatten out at all. it should still be wavey

I only ran one 1 spacer with mine

How many spacers depends on a few variables; tolerance in the BB spec, tolerance in the aluminium spacers, type of BB being used, bearing shields used.

As above, if you can answer yes to these questions

• it's silent
  
• there's no lateral slop
  
• everything is torqued to spec, including the lock-ring on the spider
  
  

it's fine.

My Habit runs one spacer and any more it will bind. It's silent and fine.

My F-Si runs three spacers and the wavy is hardly compressed. It's silent and fine.

he wave washer should not flatten out at all. it should still be wavey

According to Cannondale you should compress the wavy washer until you can't slide a 0.5mm shim into the gap beneath a wave, if that makes sense. I can dig out the (paper) manual that says this and photo the relevant section if anyone cares?