Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

Is there an update or too soon?

My ambition didn’t match my available free time, hope to have everything working in the next month.

Ah ok, am I right in thinking the WIFLI rear works with all sized cassettes?

In terms of eTube wire length, is it best to go as short as possible, or is it easy to hide spare wire in the frame?

I'm thinking mainly of the battery wire and the one up the downtube. Both the ones that came with the groupset (1000mm and 1200mm) seem really long and I'm also adding the bluetooth module between the frame and bars so was going to swap them out for shorter ones.

I believe so, yes. I’ve avoided WiFli and gone for a standard length, i.e. short rear mech.

It’s easy to coil excessive wire if required, especially with a zip tie or two to hold it in place. I used string to work out lengths, then ordered the closest size up.

Link here to a guy using it on 11-36 but according to sram it only goes up to 30T.

One thing to note is that the capacity is more about the amount of chain the mech can tension so just cause it can get into a 36, doesn't mean shifting will be great.

Cheers. It came with set lengths but I think I will swap a few for shorter ones to avoid unnecessary coils. Are there any places you need more than you would expect?

I thought it went to 32 according to SRAM.
My question was more could I use it on a 32 and say a 25 in the future, if I so wished?

could I use it on a 32 and say a 25 in the future, if I so wished?

You could. SRAM recommend getting the B-pivot position right for the big sprocket and let the little ones look after themselves, you'll need to adjust the B-pivot position screw when changing cassettes to keep it dialled in correctly.

Thanks!

My Di2 system is a bit homegrown, so I ordered the individual parts, including the cables, so all three of mine were the right length.

In terms of eTube wire length, is it best to go as short as possible, or is it easy to hide spare wire in the frame?

For a full-internal install, it's trivial to leave excess length in the frame. I'd always err on the side of longer rather than shorter.

I've got a spare y-cable if anyone needs one...

Also, anyone know of any good deals. I don't NEED Di2 on my other bike but, you know, why not

I'm going to need to start buying Di2 shit again for the replacement bike.
Other than the stupid pricing, any reason not to buy the DA shifters? They're a little bit lighter and compatible but I wonder if they have, say, lower capacity than the Ultegra shifters?

Also, with the rear der. do you need a special dropout for the direct mount version? Does direct mount do anything useful? Is there any disadvantage to it?

You don't need a special dropout, the derailleur should come with an adaptor for normal dropouts. Direct mount derailleurs use the shadow + shape which brings the derailleur slightly under the chainstay and therefore a bit more protected.

So maybe slight aero advantage and maybe less likely to be scraped in a crash?

Other than the stupid pricing, any reason not to buy the DA shifters?

no, get ultegra

I think the crash bit is the main selling point.

FYI I got a full Ultegra Hydro groupset from Vanilla bikes (with the bluetooth thing and braze on adaptor extra) for £1350 which I thought was pretty good. 5% extra off Shimano when I ordered

They also swapped the 3 port junction for a 5 port and ordered in a 46/36 chain set for me FOC.

I'm buying DA unless you can provide a convincing reason that it won't suit my 10-58T cassette or something.

#ideserveit

I'm getting Woolseys in Acton to build the bike for me. They're good to me so I don't mind throwing them a bit of work when I can and I can't be arsed taking it/collecting it from Scherrit (although he's building my wheel for it).

Good to support local shops. I try to build my bikes myself, mainly so that I can fix things when they go wrong. But also because I'm tight - that groupset cost more than I've ever spent on buying a whole bike before.

I presume you know that DA di2 doesn't have a long cage rear mech so you will have to use an Ultegra long cage one.

I know. LBS ftw.

I've built enough bikes and repaired enough bikes to know I can't be fucked building them, especially not in a small flat with no workstand. If there was some new tech on it, I'd learn how to service it but it's basically gonna be the same shit I've been working on for the last 3 years. Di2 hydro

I could save some money DIY but I've got enough on my plate without putting bikes together as well and it's insurance money so I don't really care about the cost, which is why I upgraded my rear hub and will go DA rather than Ultegra this time (probably, unless my old old Ultegra deraillers work for now, not sure yet).

This is the info I was trying to squeeze from the forum. I suspected it, hence the question, but hadn't got around to checking. I'm likely to be running Wolftooth so it might not be an issue but I'm not sure, it'll be a slightly different combo to what I've used in the past. Actually, will a Wolftooth work with the direct mount RD? Guess so if it's already got an adapter, but I don't really want 14 pieces of metal holding my RD on. Depends which cassette I end up going with. Lower lower lower is what I've come to the conclusion of riding multiple ultras each year. You can never have low enough gears. I save the 58x11 for the Welsh 25 course.