I've been quite surprised the last few times I've been there. Sicily had some, up north in the mountains near Giau had some nice brews. I've not been to the major cities in ages but if the little towns have craft brews then the cities must be dripping with the stuff.
Everything is abused by hippy.
There's some nice Italian beer about these days.
I went through most of the menu here one arvo:
https://www.theitalianjobpub.co.uk/