Let's offroad / mountain bike / mtb / ride dirt

Don't you have the Mezcal, or did I imagine that?

Where's the best place to get Fox Float RL seal kits and Fox suspension lube stuff?
There's a £25 kit on amazon but I could buy a used shock off ebay for that.

I reckon I could have a go at fixing an old Float shock instead of replacing it.

Barzos F+R. Was pondering Mezcal but ended up going Barzo as a more all rounder.

Ah right. I'm hoping for a reasonably light, all round tyre, without too much drag, which I can use at Mayhem.

The thought of dragging Nobby Nics around for 24 hours doesn't appeal to me.

How old and is it replaceable? One of the biggest issues with old stuff is that you can't get a suitable replacement, so if you totally murder it whilst trying to fix it, you could be writing the bike off in the process.

If you really want it fixed, and fixed properly, send it off to TF tuned or ask Mario at LMNH to do it.

They'll be good for that. Only thing I've found they've struggled in is loose dry surfaces, but then most tyres will suffer there. Yet to try really deep mud though.

The whole bike cost me £90 so you can see why I'm a bit opposed to spending £25 on some o-rings but I'm also opposed to binning something I might be able to fix myself.

I presume that if it all goes tits up I can just remove and install another Fox Float shock of the same dimensions and it'll work again?

I see Pace have updated their geometry to 'lowerlongerslacker' now.

https://singletrackworld.com/2018/11/2019-pace-rc529-29er-hardtails-gain-as-much-as-70mm-in-reach-over-2018-model/

I presume that if it all goes tits up I can just remove and install another Fox Float shock of the same dimensions and it'll work again?

Depends if they or anyone else still makes a shock of the same dimensions & stroke and with a similar tune. The former is the key, the later is kinda important but not a showstopper.

There are some of the same model on ebay but obviously I don't know if there are fifty different iterations of "Fox Float RL" over a bunch of years, for example.

The pics I've seen online show the Kona A with a coil-over shock anyway so this is possibly not the correct shock for it. https://dirtragmag.com/blast-from-the-past-kona-a-bike-review-from-2003/

I would say find yourself an ancient hardtail frame with the same headtube/BB/seat tube diam./wheel size. It'll cost you £20, then sell the old one for £15, and rebuild onto "new" frame

"shock" not "fork"

This is rear suspension we are talking about.

Yeah, I'm saying full suspension probably isn't worth the effort of servicing/buying a shock given (my perception of) what you're going to be using it for. You hate working on bikes anyway, servicing a shock is surely going to be one of the most frustrating jobs out there

What are you even on about? Consider the value that you can add to a discussion before posting.

Okay then.

Consider the value that you can add to a discussion before posting.

*Logs off forever *

LFGSS: so salty ATM

Barzo 55-559’s are great, I have decided.

1 Attachment

For now it's my commuter since every other bike I own is being killed off. I just rode it back home and it now has @Hulsroy old Fat Franks on it so I don't have to push knobbies up and down the road. The duallie cush might actually help my coccyx to heal?

The rear shock still had air in it so perhaps my theory that it was leaking was wrong. It seemed ok when it was locked out. When it was enabled it's using maybe half the available travel (after I pumped it up to maybe 150psi).

The bigger pain is actually the fork, which moves almost the full range of travel so bounces like all hell when I stand up take off at the lights. It's a Marathon Bomber with ETA but I'm not sure what sort so I don't even know if it's air or spring or what. I'm guessing coil-over oil unless the cap at the bottom comes off to reveal a valve.

There was briefly a Marzocchi Marathon coil sprung fork, but all the other Marathons were air forks.

They'll have plenty of oil in them either way ( or should have ), as they were an open bath system.

Got a picture?

Both legs have nut covers underneath them.

Ah, they have 03 written on them and "Marathon S"

http://my-sport.spb.ru/manual_1/2003%20bomber.pdf

Marathon S
Right leg - HSCV cartridge
Left leg - ETA cartridge

Fork bottoms too easily; needs more than maximum preload to attain proper sag
= Spring rate too soft or fork oil too low

• Check oil height
  
• Get stiffer springs
  
• Increase air pressure
  

Ah right. I had the 2004 versions of these. Cheapest & easiest is to change the oil & get the right amount in there. It's also possible that a previous owner used a lighter oil than recommended.

On mine the only thing affected by air was the preload, which tended to make the fork lose any sensitivity to smaller bumps, and generally feel a bit rubbish, so I kept that air chamber empty.

Other than that, you could have a long search for a suitable spring.

Does the ETA still work?

Lockdown? You mean the ETA thing? How do I test it - like, what's it supposed to do? Give more travel or less or something.

It sounds like it needs more or thicker oil. I'll have to look for service video or something to see if I can be arsed with it. Don't like anything to do with rubber seals or lots of liquids. Fiddly, messy, carpet staining bastard work.