Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

I thought about that but like to leave my bikes stock because they'll normally be snapped sold on.

Tie some string to the battery and shove it down there the you can always pull it back out. Is this on the Kinesis? How much do the rivnuts stick out?

Don't use foam around the battery, put some zip ties round it that are long enough for the loose end to wrap around the battery a few times, then feed the battery down in the seat tube - the zip ties should act as springs to centre the battery (roughly) in the tube and stop it donking about.

Why not just cut a slot in the padding the width/depth of the rivnut?

That's what I'm trying to find out. How long are the rivnuts?

That's how the cable is done to stop rattling but would probably make it a pain to get the battery out if it did fall below the rivnut - then the zip ties would hook it and it's hard to twist something once it's deep in the tube.

Until I know how long the rivnut is, I won't know if this groove will actually need to be deeper than the padding only. It's only a thin amount of padding. If I could get a copy of a rivnut (or its length) I could see exactly how much room I've got to play with behind it.

Can you not shine a light down the tube and see how long it is? Can't be anymore than 7-8mm.

Is that a E-Tube sprint shifter?

Yeah, I can see it and it looks pretty long but when the gaps getting down to millimetres I'd like to know so I can mock it up before I ruin something that's working well.

For a temp solution I've bought spare cables and a Junc B and I'll wire it up so the battery is external.

Is that a E-Tube sprint shifter?

It's a Di2 sprint shifter (which is just a momentary switch) soldered to an eTap plug.

Is tres bien.

Has anyone fitted di2 with the battery in steerer tube? I can see it should be possible, the battery bung seems available but do I also need a different expander plug so the wire can go in?

Can't work out whether this is all worthwhile...

Thought about it. Dismissed it as being just a bit too fiddly and requires special bits so not great if something fails and then you have to drill out a steerer bung/top cap somewhere.

Yeah it's the steerer bung / top cap that I was finding fiddly. Shame, as otherwise it looks neat

Is there any downside to wiring everything in one long line in Di2?

BB junction > left Shifter>Right Shifter> 3 port junction box.

I'm looking at having a TT shifters that are easily taken on and off the bike, so I'm hoping the above setup would leave 2 free ports on the junction box for the TT shifters to be added into.

I guess is means if one wire is disconnected or broken the whole system is useless which is not ideal.

Y u no https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Shimano/Dura-Ace-Di2-9070-5-Port-TT-Handlebar-Junction-Box/27VM?

It's not what come with the groupset, so extra cost and I also like the idea of having a really minimal clean setup. However I don't want to compromise performance/reliability for the sake of it.

Anyone had any luck with making the tripster AT rear cables a bit neater? I've got mine under a chainstay protector but it always seems a bit fragile

That's where mine are.
Didn't have any issues with it there. Run it straight through cable guide and tape it all up.

I used a load of electrical tape then a bar-tape chainstay wrap. Seems okay so far but still keeping an eye out to see if it can be "better"

You can just see the single strip of black leccy tape on the chainstay. Use good tape and you don't need much:

Don't suppose you've got a tolerable photo of the front mech cabling? It's the only other area I'm not happy with

Am I missing something? I use this for di2 and dynamo cables...
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-ultegra-6770-di2-cable-cover-sheath-for-sd50

I only take NDS photos to fuck off the instagram people.

Front mech cable comes straight out of the frame into the front mech. What's the drama with that one?

Electrical tape is cheaper and easier to run along the bottom of the chainstay as it's skinnier but they can also be used.