Home DIY

Fair enough.

I'm conscious about stuff like my motorbike fluids (which go to the dump) but for paint resedue and the small amount of paster waste water I've produced I've never thought about it.

From now on I guess I'll keep it to go along with my oil etc.

Thank you for your consideration.

The mindset of 'my little bit of waste (=effluent/pollution) can't hurt' led in the past to;
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cuyahoga_River

Out here in sunny Ruislip, the local river, the mighty Pinn,
such a torrent that HS2 cannot be tunnelled underneath it,
suffers from the urban fringe effect, typically lazy builders/plumbers piping in waste from handbasins & washing machines, (in extensions/futilty rooms), into the stormwater rather than the foulwater/sewage drain system.

Currently thanks to water sampling organised by Thames21, we are gradually tracking down such sources of effluent, but broadly, per unit length of the Pinn we are one caddis fly nymph,
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caddisfly#Underwater_architects
down, from 5 to 4. Yeah, so what, one insect larvae 'missing'?
But, this indicates that the main river of a London Borough has (possibly) 20% of its biomass missing. So this goes all the way up through the pyramidal foodchain to less fish, to eventually, we don't have resident kingfishers along this stretch of the Pinn.

Road drains just for storm water please.

What would you treat the Beech with?, that's what I bought in the end

Today’s work update; the fun continues.
They have managed to break the kitchen door lock.
Also managed to drill through the wall in the bathroom in to the hallway.

Seeings it's a small set of hands, nothing. You could try a polyurethane varnish, but I'd be inclined to sand it and make sure there are no splinters.

This is assuming you're using it inside.

Indoors, it's been 'smoothed', the square pieces are PAR so I assume the dowel is also 'planed'.

Should be ok. You could paint it with water which will raise the grain (fibres), wait for it to dry and give it a sand.

Another way to get wood silky smooth is to burnish it. I use a handful of coarse wood shavings and rub it vigorously along the piece of wood, it makes it beautifully smooth like no other finish.

You could also wipe some beeswax on it or make a paste from soap flakes and wipe it on.

I'll try to remember what the soap paste is called.

Here's a link

https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/soap-making-clean-finish-2/

I use soap on my pine floors at home, it's very nice and easy to use.

Sadolin Supercdec Satin goes straight on bare wood a treat - two coats is usually enough. I've heard good things about Bedec barn paint as well but never used it myself.

Next chapter, having a cupboard made around the boiler in the bathroom and cupboard for washing machine and dryer.
Maybe I’m overly worrying now but this looks a bit too tight!?
Edit: apologies wasn’t meant to be a reply

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For the boiler cupboard, you need to refer to the original installion instructions.

They will specify clearances.

This may be for cooling / heat purposes but also for servicing.

Been to loads of boilers I couldn’t service/ repair as a carpenter had built a cupboard too tight to the boiler.

I think the boiler has plenty of room.
It’s this washing machine dryer one I’m worried about.

Path progress: After levelling sand for the past couple of days and knocking out the last of the concrete at the bottom edge I was all set to replace it with a shiney new kerb stone. But the new edge, with its top edge where it needs to be, only comes down to the existing lower deck.

Will I get away with cementing it in with mortar at the back and sides, considering this will only see relatively light foot traffic?

The other option is dropping down another inch and re-levelling the sand, but this will really mess with the interface with the bits at either side. (blocks are not down yet)

Edit: looks like TP do a 250mm deep edge, I guess I'll be getting me one of them.

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That looks like it'll be an interference fit.

Hmm, I can’t tell if you mean this is intentional or tongue in cheek it’s too tight!?
That having googled as well haha

Hard to tell from your photos. What are the two dimensions exactly?

I’d say washing machine is 595mm and between hinges is ~585mm harder to measure precisely.
Not sure there is enough depth behind the hinges to take them off and put the machine in and can’t see how you’d fit the hinges with the machine there given lack of depth.

I made some drawers inside some wardrobes not so long ago and forgot to account for the door hinges. But I'm not a professional and am supposed to make these kind of stupid mistakes.

I'd just double check with him that you're worried it won't fit and can he double check before it goes any further.

Inverse cupboard shim.

Pretty tense whilst they see if the machines fit. They certainly aren’t confident.

Installed IKEA Elvarli in my built in wardrobe. refit doors, doors dont move enough to each side to be able to open the drawers on either side of the wardrobe. fuck.

I feel ya.
I don’t know how fixed it is but my old one needed to be square for the clearance.

ours is way off, needs 10cm on one side and it clears the other sides by 1cm.

Luckily we hate the doors (theyre mirrored and gross) so will try and get some sort of 2 doors to replace the 3 doors and we'll live with no doors for now

The machines fit! Just!

Nice. I'd recommend finding some foam to fit down the sides of each machine to help with vibrations though the cupboards.

Yep think that’s a good idea!
Wondering if I should ask for the shelf to be fixed to give greater ridgity.