Car appreciation... the aesthetics, the engineering, etc

Just a flippant remark relating the to the issues I remembered you having when you were trying to fit the plugs.

I be over >>>>

I did way back in the day with my Mini One, when it still had a warranty and servicing pack, but like @Dammit said, it came with a tool to flash back to stock

I think if you gave your engine builder the spec of a stock Mazda BP engine and said build me a reliable 100bhp/litre with 9k rev limit he'd recommend something similar.

The benefit I have is Americans are crazy and they have multiple MX5 race series and they're all keen to go as fast as possible for as cheap as possible. They've been doing all the hard work testing and uncovering the most cost efficient way of doing almost everything for about 10 years, and even now still discovering new things, eg these cheap as hell valve springs from Summit Racing.

By contrast, everyone building an N/A motor in the UK wants to suck off the guy who has spent about 15k getting 235ish from a 1.8, which is impressive but unless you're racing at the very highest level, 15k would probably get you 20-30 less reliable engines, and that 15k engine would need constant maintenance.

Me too. What you after? I'm on a limited budget. After a MK2 or 2.5 with as little rust underneath as poss. 1.8. preferably with a hardtop. Budget around 2k.

I reckon my sense of humour has taken a hit...likely the fumes.

Pulled the rocket shaft yesterday, no obvious witness marks on the pushrods or heads but it's desperately tricky to tell as the heads have been machined already. Going to mark up the holes in the offending area with engineers blue and crank it on the starter.

.....with the plugs out....

Two differing friends? parents have z4 convertables. Both the males are car buffs and have classic cars. These cars do change after a year or two. Both men call the car 'white goods', boring never go wrong, even if they have been sitting for 3-4 weeks whilst on holiday, jump in and the car starts. Servicing and consumables is it.

Both have had the cars for 4-5 years and don't mention selling them. So should be good.

Worthwhile checking everything is straight or inline?

How about a bit or rear engined MR2 fun :)

I'll roll the pushrods on the surface plate before I pop them back in but they're 3/8, 0.083 and very unlikely they'll bend except for a catastrophic failure.

Am clutching at straws really, are the seats the right shape and in the right position? Can you swap the rods around and see it the noise is still there?

Track day / race car friends:

What brake pads are you using? Looking at Ferodo DS3000 or Mintex F6R but open to feedback / other options

MLB40/1144 in the racer, greenstuff in the brockley express

obvs not tested the mintex yet, but the greenstuff pads were certainly up to the task for 20 min sessions on the trackdays. most people will tell you to go red, becauseracecar, but i never had an issue with the green ones.

probably no use to you, as you will have a button more power.

Yeah I am also considering a mk3 mr2.
Having spent some time looking at me the looks have grown on me a little (still pretty ugly tho).

The lack of luggage space isn’t really a prob as I’ll only use it for weekend fun. Hmmm

Still pretty set on the mx5 tho I think.

i think F6 is the equivalent to an 1155? i cant figure out if they're different pads or just a name change.

I've not looked at EBC, but the ferodos are frighteningly expensive

It seems no one makes steel 17” wheels for my Legacy. Can’t find hem anywhere. Odd considering Subaru are 4x4/ winter/ farmer/ rally cars.

whats the wheel fitment specs? 5 x 100 ET55?

On the subject of wheels. Turns out I need some spigot rings...avoid in general, or just avoid the plastic/polymer variants?

thinking about selling my mx5 (breaks my heart) this is my third and by far the best. Fresh import from Japan 5 years ago which i've owned it since then. Its a mk2 white RS model with Bilsteins/replaced wheels (tyres/tyres/new roof/new exahust/new Cat. Serived every year with Mobil 1. Rick solid underneath. Body work a bit tatty and the inside could do with a tidy, couple of holes in the seat and steering wheel well worn. Would make a great trackday car

Anybody interested?

i've used the plastic ones before but also had some aluminium ones before.

there's a guy on eBay who machines them if you send him what you want

Clio is going to ktec racing for a service later this year, will prob upgrade pads, lines and fluid while it's in. Seems a shame not to get it mapped while it's in. 270bhp is a conservative estimate...

Tell me more. I haven't stopped looking at 182's. Was watching Harry Metcalfe's ponderings about his Trophy and he summed it perfectly.

@sacredhart JDM MK2 RS is one of the best to keep OEM and enjoy!

Carbon Lorraine, Carbotech, or Performance Friction. Personally best performance I've experienced is Carbotech with Nitrac discs. Speak to Ian at Carbotech about your power and weight and he'll recommend which model. I ran XP8 with 150bhp and standard ish weight MX5. You might need XP10.

On the subject of wheels. Turns out I need some spigot rings...avoid in general, or just avoid the plastic/polymer variants?

Thanks! I've done a bit more reading and now understand they don't actually provide any load bearing function, so seeing as I don't anticipate frequent wheel changes I think I'll just go plastic.

Can't see it when you are sitting in it.

Got to mk1 IMO. Pop up lights are fucking cool.

You don't even need the plastic ones, just tighten the wheels evenly, don't torque one all the way up while all the others are loose.