Car appreciation... the aesthetics, the engineering, etc

Crying out for a howling wolf/moon scene, surely?

Thanks for the advice. To be honest, I don't particularly care if it's not 100% match; if (when) I sell it on, the buyer should be anticipating doing a bit of work to a 23 year old van.

Crying out for a howling wolf/moon scene, surely?

Maybe a self-portrait spray painted?

paint a massive cat on the side to distract the eye from the cluster fuck rear end.

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Top advice. What more could you ask for, @Pifko ?

change the cat for a dragon

or a stegosaurus

Distraction is the name of the game when rattlecans are the tool of choice.

Get this printed on vinyl and re-wrap the bootlid:

Depends on the car. Best bet is look online and see if there are issues. Example is the panda/500 gearbox.

Might be worthwhile to check the pump is the actual issue, not a wiring issue or debris from the fuel affecting the sensor.

If you are going to home spray, how much time have you got free for the prep? Is there an area that the van will get in to to make a booth?

Or gloss roller and coach paint.

Thanks. It's going in on Thursday - I'll definitely ask them to check on that. I assume the filter could be the other cheaper cause of low pressure if it's caked a bit, though I think that's been replaced relatively recently.

Ah when it was changed, were there any metalloic bits in the old filter.

What brand is the new fuel filter? Some fords (mondeo from experience) suffer with fuel filter causing starvation so only certain brands, from certain factories seem to be trouble free or ford original.

Wobbly brakes. What’s the deal with this? Had brake discs and pads replaced in all corners about a year ago, and now there’s a fair bit of vibrations in the steering wheel when I brake.

What’s the reason for this? Haven’t used them excessively so it can’t be overheating. Someone told me it can happen when you change tyres and they do up the bolts too tight?

And finally, what can I do to fix it? Find someone with a lathe?

Just which one?

Non-rusty mk2.5 1.8l sport.

Comes with a LSD and 6 speed gearbox. Although idk if having 6 speeds makes much difference.

Otherwise any Non-rusty mk1.

^^Rust on the inner face of the discs?

Take it to a quiet road and do some emergency stops, will clear off any rust if it is that...

Could be worn bushes in the suspension. Either that or warped discs. Check the run-out on the discs with a DTI and compare that to manufacturer's specs. If it's not that, it's suspension bushes. If it's warped discs then it's not worth skimming the discs unless you have something very exotic with expensive discs.

If it was tyres you'd feel it all the time, not just under braking.

That'll clean the discs up if it's only surface rust, if it's a bit more serious than getting the discs skimmed (if there's enough meat on them) is going to be required.

The outer face of my discs were like mirrors, the inner face - not so much. Quick spin on the lathe and judder-be-gone.

What car and when did it start? Was it afterr you have had tyres changed. Part of me hopes that a bolt or nut would strip before damaging the hub in this situation.

Might be an idea to at the discs surface are like and see if the wheels spins freely. If the disc looks suspect try and find someone with an on car brake lathe such as https://brakelathe.co.uk/. Video on there to show the machine in action.

If the wheel is stiff to turn, you need to start taking tings apart to look at the problem.

Better to not come to a stop, and do that a few times, try and brake and not get the abs to function. This is a good way to rebed in pads and discs.

Run out between the hub and inner face of disc. Only takes a tiny amount (0.2mm) to cause epic problems, usually around 1000-2000 miles from install.
Disc unlikely to be warped, more common is disc thinning or just plain runout.
Runout you can maybe fix by taking it all apart and sorting the run out with a dial gauge, but usually by the time you have the symptoms is too late for that disc, as one area (high spot) will have been thinned down minutely by hundreds of thousands of passes across disc pad.

I went through three sets of discs on one of mine until I sorted it.
First time, my bad, I had 10x the permissable runout at the hub (read the gauge wrong)
Second time run out was at limit of spec but couldn't make hub any cleaner, so bought new hubs (face was bent from either over tightened or road damage). Didn't get dial gauge our, just whacked my new £90 a corner disc on my new £170 a corner hub assuming both German companies who made them, made them right.
Third time. One hub was not straight from factory and caused thinning of a disc, again. Replace hub, again, replace did for third time, and finally no problems.

During this time also.... Rebuilt brake calipers and master with all new internals to irraicate chance of a slow returning piston from causing disc thinning and checked every bush and joint in the car about 8 times.

Cars. Yeay.

What brand is the new fuel filter? Some fords (mondeo from experience) suffer with fuel filter causing starvation so only certain brands, from certain factories seem to be trouble free or ford original.

Ok, thanks for this. No idea about the make to be honest. So I guess the order to get them to look in terms of cheapness is sensor and filter before the fuel pumps are touched.

I had this - new discs on front warped after a year. Garage reckoned it was due to previous owner using cheap pattern parts and not BMW.

Current OEM set are 10k in and perfect.