LooOOOook 464 Dreadnought Tank

Talking of tapped axles...

Mavic Aksium tapped for M6 screws, 25C Gp4000S from the parts bin

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Due to no imminent probability of getting any track time, I'm having a change of direction with this project. Hence Mavic Crossride 29er Boost 110×15, plus adapter, the other GP4000 and an 18T Velosolo sprocket from @c00ps to give ~72"

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Good to see the 464 is alive and well. Have you had the adapter made?

Have you had the adapter made?

Yes, you can see it in position in the picture of the rear hub

Is bolt on cog a tester approved solution? I thought it’s a deathwish (no evidence to prove it though)

Is bolt on cog a tester approved solution?

Yes, obviously. Not only approved, but held out as the only proper way to do it, the only excuse for screw-on sprockets being that you still own legacy components or your chainstay won't clear a big enough chainring to give the gear you need with the 16T minimum. I'm not sure why anybody would have any doubt about it, we've been using bolt-on chainrings for many decades, and motorcyclists have been using bolt-on wheel sprockets for just as long.

The weight of this wheel must be, uh, significant?
Not as critical on the track, but it's still not ideal to have an overly heavy wheel?

The weight of this wheel must be, uh, significant?

Not as bad as you'd think, 1004g with the conversion and rimtape but no tyre or sprocket. That's about the same as a Mavic Ellipse and a whole pound lighter than the disc on my race bike.

Not as critical on the track, but it's still not ideal to have an overly heavy wheel?

It's not a track bike any more. People make too much of how equipment weight affects performance. Going weight weenie would only save half a pound on the rear wheel, and that would only be 0.2% of the all-up weight once I get aboard.

"Aero" post actually chosen for thigh clearance. Necessarily Chinese crabon as nobody else seems to bother with aero posts for 31.6mm round holes, so I've got stupid-cheap Chinese crabon saddle and clamp too for the lolz. Can always revert to SLR and aluminium clamp if it doesn't work.

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Pro Vibe 7S stem and Vibe carbon bars from the parts bin, old K-Edge all-metal Garmin holder, not very nice laser etched stem cap to remind me that I need to make some #tartmode Look Mondrian caps.

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SRAM S500 levers and Campag Veloce brake to match the Shimano cranks 🙂 To borrow a phrase from Dreadnought ship specification, it is currently wired "for, but not with" JTek cable doubler, using Transfil Flying Snake

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Boost hub + road cranks = near-perfect chainline, which is just as well given how inflexible the Wipperman 1R8 is

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Ample clearance at the back for the 30mm wide tyre...

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...and plenty at the front for 26.5mm tyre

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Can still hear the sound of the 1r8 with the 40mm powertap chainline and 42mm Sugino 75 chainline.

Rollout on 48/18 is 18'8", giving a gear of 71.3. If I were chasing marginal gains, I'd change to 51/19 to get 71.8

And 140mm cranks?

And 140mm cranks?

Yeah, that would be good too. These 5700s are 165mm, which is better than using the 175mm Fulcrum cranks which will be going on once the MG event is out of the way.

"Aero" post actually chosen for thigh clearance.

[swoon]

Ample clearance at the back for the 30mm wide tyre...

Enough!

PS Why all the cable hanging out of the doubler?

the doubler

"For, but not with"
There is no doubler, I just have the cable run under the tape to allow me to fit one later without having to redo the tape. Everything will be trimmed to the correct length in that eventuality.

Well, it is a Dreadnought.

Trouble free shakedown trial with a brief excursion to 125rpm

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This is ace. Glad to contribute!