Pre 1950s rides of LFGSS: old bikes, vintage rats, classic lightweights

I’m not so sure

It seemed to be a post-Rensch Paris TDF that had been run as a Fixed/Fixed. So no fancy fork crown or bi-lams.

Still a nice bike, but I think that’s far to much. I may just be bitter that I didn’t win It though.....

Pumped for that Elsegood in the end, after the Paris went nuclear.

Hopefully a bit of TLC and it will be a great commuter

"Long time listener, first time caller!"

I'd be grateful for your advice, particularly with regards to any compatibility issues, such as what headset and BB standard it's likely to have.

Hilary Stone's bargain basement has tickled my fancy with the Belgian beauty: HUIJBRECHTS ROAD FRAME Late 1950s (scroll down just over halfway).

I can't afford to disappear down a period-correct rabbit hole and it'll need pay for it's keep: mostly road, light off-road and brief guerrilla camping (see the bike-tramps thread).

I'd hazard a guess at BSA?

I'm sure if you ask nicely, Hilary might tell you...

126 rear end is it? What does it take 27's or 700c?

Ephgrave 59cm
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F202392031353

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1930s Allin
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F263854064925

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1960s
Jack Taylor tandem trike
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F113186703075

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A lovely piece of Scottish frame building.

1951 E & S Worrall.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F202409233142

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Oil port on a 1950s frame - How do you use this?
Do you need an old oil can to fit the port or is there something else to use

Thanks

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I always thought they were for the old style grease guns no?
Used to have to do it regularly on what they laughably called "suspension" on my old Minis

You could be right there but weren't they just for car's

You will need a Tecalemit grease gun.
Bought one on Ebay years ago.
Sometimes listed as Tecalemite as well.
Just make sure that it has got a concave end and try to gentle poke the nipple end to make sure it moves freely to let the grease in.

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If you google "vintage oil gun" you'll see syringe type things that look like grease guns - the main difference is the washer, which is double acting in an oil gun - draw oil from an open can by pulling the plunger, deposit it by pushing. My late father-in-law had a selection (different sizes and end fittings) for use with his stationary engines. I think they were popular pre-war and largely superseded by pump action oil cans?

Thanks very much @MrE & @ElGato,
Bought a Tecalemit on eBay and yes the nipple moves freely on the BB.

If anybody is looking for replacement Harden Hub bearings I bought a set of 4 from "Five Ways Belts and Bearings" Sidcup Road Eltham for 12 pound yesterday.
They were very helpful and were quick to identify the metric sizing, I took the old bearings "KLNJ3/8" in just in case but if you quote 3/8, 7/8,7/32 they will know the the size.

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Was reminded by a couple of the posts above about an FE Dunning frameset I bought on here a couple months ago (see below).
I'm starting to think about how to build up, and I am keen for input, having had a brief chat with @mespilus about it two weeks ago. I have had bad experiences with cottered cranks, so I am thinking I'd like to stick with square taper BB and maybe some Williams cranks if I can get hold of them. Any other recommendations in general for this period? I will probably use it as a Sunday best cafe bike to show off in the neighbourhood in which it was built (Willesden), so unlikely to do any long rides and probably won't have gears. Any insights on the different braze-ons (esp near the bottom of the forks)?

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You can go fixed, singlespeed, hub gears (Sturmey Archer).
You can go period or a more practical setup, though it would be nice to fit some period parts if you’re only going to use it as a Sunday best cafe.
If setup properly cottered cranks should not be a problem.
Those braze one are for quick release wingnuts for mudguards.

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Find out whether the frame is build for 26" or 27" wheels, if you haven't already.
@ElGato is right about cottered cranks, when set up right they are no problem and will add to the look of the bike.

Have these calipers - GB Standard Hiduminium which have Fibrax pads which have little stopping power.

I wanted to upgrade the calipers and get better stopping power & bought new complete blocks but the problem I have is that the new blocks do not have a long enough threaded bolt and cannot be securely fixed to the calipers to provide good braking against the angled rim.

Has anyone got any recommendations for a make of pads which will fit the original blocks or a make of complete blocks with a suitable threaded bolt. Looking at Kool stop pads which look suitable but don't know if they will work and what size (4 dots, 6 dots)

Thanks

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EDIT: as you have chromed rims you will need the Fibrax Rain Cheater pads I linked to below.

Are you planning on cleaning them?
When you do, make sure there is a washer between the two main components as seen in Mike's glorious photo.
I use a red fibre washer.

Blimey I remember those brakes lol. I worked in a bike shop in the 70's as a teenager and really old people (younger than me now) brought bikes in with these. I guess they are just after the war

Do your blocks look like compressed leather? They were popular with steel rims BITD. I wonder what modern pads are good with steel rims?

Cracking bike by the way :)

I have the Dunlop Stainless Special Lightweight rims on one of my bikes. I use the FIBRAX SH300R RAIN CHEATER pad

Ohhh, never knew leathery stuff was still available Mr Big Block.... Every day is a school day as they say :)

Excellent thanks for the advice and recommendation, ordered them.

Thanks @midlife.
Your guess is correct - According to velobase, the calipers were made from 1948.