Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

what caliper is this?

hylex

Where were they being ridden?! I have been using an rt99 on the front and an rt86 on the rear for the last 2 years, no issues at all, using the rs785 sytem with finned pads..

Where were they being ridden?!

Does it matter? Will it justify brake fade due to poor heat dissipation?

The bikes running 160 up front of all Shimano levels didn't fail. 140's on the same brake setup did. Not all, but enough to raise questions.

It does matter as im interested ... I have done fairly decent sized descents and not had an issue, you cant post in a forum and not expect questions :')

I have done fairly decent sized descents and not had an issue

That's not really a sample rate. Subjective experience aside, as many on here have done the same.
My experience stems from a fleet of bikes, set up evenly, maintained regularly, ridden over varying terrain in diverse conditions.
Statistically, there was a higher failure rate from 140mm rotor equipped bikes in relation to 160mm equipped ones.
Whether this proves causation, I'm not a statistician so I can't tell you. Maybe the 140mm equipped bikes had brake dragging noobs on them and that fucked them up and vice versa.

....my new disc wheels have thru-axles, but using an alan key - can i buy any same size replacements with "QR like" lever instead?

can i buy any same size replacements with "QR like" lever instead?

You can, but don't bother - they are heavier and a pain in the ass to use.

If you estimate how many failed of each rotor we can tell you whether it's a statistically significant difference.

But the statistics cannot prove causation in this case 😉

Can I use standard brake cables in a Jagwire compressionless housing? Need to replace my cables.

Yup!

Amen!

It's the outer that's compressionless, the only difference (AFAIK) between inner cables is the anti-friction treatment.

Some don't let you caliper > lever bled until the lever has been tapped a bit.
Whilst holding low to moderate (the only amount you should ever push) pressure on the syringe at the caliper end, mess with the lever a bit. Starting with very small movement around 2-3mm at tip of lever in and out, gradually increasing until fluid starts flowing like it should.
Some lever do it, some do not, no idea why.

In my experiences from working in a workshop, 140mm rotors need regular replacing due to more wear despite pads having plenty of life left (resin) on top of the warped.

When quoting bike for a service, I always put down a recommendation of going for a 160mm over 140mm, it’s helpful that the flat mount standard mean I can just flip the adaptor the other way roins to use bigger rotor.

AFAIK, only Shimano happily recommend 140mm rotor in all but the largest cyclists, and they spend a lots of R&D in designing their 140mm rotor to dissipate as much heat as possible.

160mm mean better heat dissipate, longer lasting, and less likely to warp especially the floating rotor design.

TL:DR; I concur with @Chak finding, from customers bike to personal bike.

The only advantage to 140mm is IMO, aesthetics and weight.

Nope, there are linear brake cables too...

Just as well I covered my arse with an "AFAIK" :)

U wot m9?

Something along this lines, usually pre stretched too...

1 Attachment

Linear only refers to the housing/outer, ie compressionless.

Indeed.

Let's agree to disagree, what's in a name eh?

And yeah I will still buy Odyssey cables as they are better than conventional ones.

what's in a name eh?

If that name is "love", then everything: you know I could never disagree with you.

That...that's good. I'm stealing that.