Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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@frankenbike @Simba et al, utfs turned up your discussion re trailing spoke heads in/out on disc hubs. First time I've understood wtf that Shimano illustration actually meant, thanks a lot! Just laced up my 27.5+ wheelset using your pics and the regular Sheldon pages as guides.

I'm useful! Hooray.

PS for anyone interested my "incorrectly" laced wheel has never had any problems with caliper clearance or spokes come loose or anything. Neither has the correctly laced one.

🙌🏼

my "incorrectly" laced wheel has never had any problems

Yeah. This is true for almost every faux pas I've made when building wheels and/or bikes. But it's satisfying to do things by the book!

Did you call? No I don't list CX rays on the website. The cost of stocking them for retail would be huge.

I'm building a dynamo wheel with a Shutter Precision PD-8X and a 50 mm DT Swiss carbon rim. Had some different rattling noises and fished out some flakes of brown stuff which I assume is dried linseed oil. That eliminated some of the noise, but not all. Will the resistance of the dynamo cause that much noise? Skewer is torqued the correct amount, I've tried with and without rimtape, tubes and tyres.

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x post from AQA - is this what a delaminated brake track looks like?

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I see marks on the brake track. delamination is carbon peeling away from carbon. that is quite obvious. If it brakes fine and feel fine to the touch it is - disclaimer I have never seen the wheel so this is my edcuated guess based on photos.

thank you

Edit: just an FYI for future - I sent the same images to Enve and they came back with the following

Thanks for the email! Those markings in the brake track do look to be early signs of brake track damage. This is caused when the brake track/pads heat up whilst descending and the resin in the rim expands. This was the main driving force behind the development of our current brake track with the textured pattern and higher temperature resin, through which we have eliminated this issue.

That's why I said if it brakes fine. If the brake track has overheated then the braking performance will be degraded. Brake track overheating is not delamination.

It is not possible to eliminate the issue just push the point of overheating back far enough that it becomes less likely.

Evening all. I’m looking to build an S2C hub onto a 16” velocity rim for a brompton. The rim comes in 28 and 32 hole, whilst the hub comes in 32 and 36 hole drillings. I’m about 70kg, and it’s just for light commuting. Can anyone recommend spoke number (and therefore which combo of rim and hub drillings) and cross requirements. Have seen this done with as few as 16 spokes with allegedly no issues, but don’t really fancy breaking spokes. Thanks for any help :)

The rim comes in 28 and 32 hole, whilst the hub comes in 32 and 36 hole drillings...Can anyone recommend spoke number

I'm guessing 32 is likely to provide the best compromise :) You probably won't be able to do 3X with a big hub in a small rim, so 2X looks the best bet.

Anyone got any ideas where I could find the dimensions for a Shimano RM 66 front hub so I can get spokes ordered without waiting till the hub is in hand?

The Leonard spoke calc has dimensions listed for the RM 65 which looks kinda similar, just with inferior seals but it might be naive of me to think they used the same hub shells eh?

Also, radial lacing on the non brake side of a disc brake wheel, yay or nay?

It probably won't kill you but why bother?

#ChannelingTheInnerTester

Yeah you're probably right.

Might do it if I want to use up spokes I have in my spokes box and there isn't a full 32 of the size needed for 3x.

All radial does on a disc brake wheelset is potentially compromise it probably to a lesser degree. It depends how desperate you are to use up those spare spokes.

sorted. thanks

My RM66 hub from crc turned up and it’s not the hub they have pictured and it’s not got the nice rubber seals.

It does seem though like you have to quite high up the Shimano food chain before you get rubber seals. Like, XT or Ultegra level.

Not sure whether to just go with this hub or whether to look for something nicer.

Only bought it coz it was so cheap (£9.99) and I have some budget for something nicer.

Oh and I have some time to think because Merlin sent me a 26” xm319 instead of the 29” one.

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Spoke tension. How do I know how far to tighten everything up once I get to the final truing stage? Don’t have a tension guage thingy.

I've built less than 20 wheels so take my experience for what it's worth, but all of them have been assembled without a tensiometer and have remained true over time. I keep approximate track of how many turns of the wrench until final tensioning and constantly stress relieve the wheel by squeezing pairs of spokes.
I used Phils as spoke lube.

Ah. Right-o, thanks. Will just carry on for a bit and see how things go.

As with @withered_preacher, never used a meter, never really had a problem.

I spin the nipples on a few threads at assembly, then take them down to like hide all but one or 2 threads (make it the same all the way round) and then start counting turns.

I find keeping nipple sides square to the rim makes counting turns much easier. And it helps my ocd.

Very useful, thanks also. Made a start, made a mess. Having a rest, will have another go in a bit