Home DIY

This

Nail guns. Hit me up.

Just joking, I've just realised how expensive the cordless dewalt ones are. Balls.

I've treated myself to a hammer with a longer handle instead.

Thanks for the help guys!

You buggers have got too much time on your hands

As I sit here in the minor injuries unit, I'm starting to thing that kangos and feet don't mix.

The good news is that it missed my steel toecaps completely, so at least my safety boots are OK.

Ouch. Anything broken? Next time wear full dragonbone armour.

Dragon bone?

Mithril ftw.

Anything broken?

Waiting for an x-ray just now. It doesn't feel broken, but it's possible that I've smooshed a metatarsal and pinged a tendon.

And infection looks like it's settling in.

Wtf? What's happend bru??? Photos or it didn't happen.

I was standing in the wrong place while breaking concrete in a trench, and the breaker slipped onto my foot.

Oddly enough, it hurt for a bit at the time, but was fine until I took my boot off 4 hours later.

There is a picture, but this isn't a gore thread.

Also, it's not that impressive as wounds go.

Come on! Can't tease us like that!

HealTFU buddy.

Speaking of which , can I borrow your jackhammer please? 😝

You're not the only one ruining their feet. I had a sheet of mdf fall on my big toe last week. Wasn't wearing boots. It's a lovely purple mess now. #prayformynail

cheers. much appreciated.

Anyone know of a thing that will allow me to replace a simple cylinder lock like this, with a handle/knob?

1 Attachment

My skirting boards, door frames, etc are all wooden and looking a bit tired (late victorian house). What's the best way of refreshing them without sanding down and varnishing and everything? I'm thinking some sort of polish or wax or something. I'm looking for the best solution for the minimum effort as I could do with getting it done so I can move on to more important stuff.

Maybe a rim knob. You can ask at your local hardware store. Be careful googling them. :)

Best solution for minimum effort is to avert your gaze whenever you are near the offending woodwork. Works for me every time. Basically just move onto more important stuff and forget it entirely.

Tiswas builds a shed

That's what I've been doing for the past 10 years but the effects of accumulated mess from the ceiling being knocked through, plastering and repeated sanding of the walls whilst painting means that the time has come to bite the bullet.

I have been gifted a new Makita DTM51Z cordless multi tool (body only).

I use Bosch so would like to get rid and put towards something which is compatible with my batteries.

Would like £80 (cheapest I can see online is a shade over £100)

How fussy are you? If you just want to smarten varnished wood that's had a tough life, clean it with sugar soap and put another coat of varnish on. Would probably help if you keyed it with 320 grit (use the flexible sheets that car sprayers use), run over it with a tack cloth first. If it's not already matt finish, changing to matt would help cover some of the knocks and scratches.

Any tips for sorting out an internal door that won't close properly?

The door frame is out of whack in the door opening direction. Hard to describe, but the frames hinge side and top edge are fine, but the handle side is not plumb, so when I close the door it closes nicely on hinge side, top side and top of the handle side, but leaves a 25mm gap at the bottom of the handle side. Was thinking of pulling off the stop and setting it back on at an angle, but I fear it would look a bit naff.

That's usually how it's done if you can't just replace the door with one that's not warped. There are a lot of legendary cures to warped wood, nothing I would try professionally but I've heard pouring boiling water on it can work. If you get a wider door stop you can trim it to fit the warp in the door and still have it in the right place at the front, it looks a bit better that way.

Warped doors are the carpenters nemesis. It's the kind of thing I wake up in a sweat about when I'm buying doors.

Damp under a ground floor window in an alley. The only thing that's come back as a flag on the full fat survey. What would be the process to repair? Presume there's a membrane beneath the ground that's gone, so maybe some excavation required outside? (It's concrete in the alley). ££? or ££££?

Normally tough to get someone to do a decent job of it regardless of money. You need to take time to investigate the origins of the problem over time and take a few opinions. I wouldn't stress too much about a damp patch in a victorian building. Most have one or 2 that are tricky or near impossible to solve.