Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

Ah! Gotcha.

I think bite and power are being confused.

Yeah was thinking about this, I sometime read "bite" as in more on/off than a initial modulation, I feel bite is a bit vague.

The R1 adjustment is super easy too, just turn a little dial every now and then.

That what I like about it, instead of using a 3mm allen keys on both side of the TRP Spyres, just adjust the dial to bring the pads closer, yet won't affect the power like adjusting the Spyres' barrier adjuster.

Some review were saying it lack the power of a full hydraulic system, and I was thinking just fit a sintered pads to compensate.

They've got plenty of power, but less than full hydros, yeah. They do feel nice though, lever is heavier than full hydro but much less lever throw and an easy and relatively cheap upgrade. 5/7 would bang.

And they'll be getting the shimano Ti backed resin pads when these run out, as madison are selling them off cheap.

The V brakes on my old saracen with koolstop pads have shit loads of bite, will happily throw you over the front at slow speeds, but not so good at stopping you rolling down a big rock when you get all scared but are already carrying some speed.

Think I get what you're saying, although the softer pads on rims brake felt more on/off compare to the harder wearing pads.

However more likely to worn out the koolstop on a descent if I drag it instead of feathering it.

Just tried some hy/rd for the first time, I have to say I'm pretty underwhelmed, but I am at least able to lock of the rear wheel fairly easily now the pads seem to have bedded in. I can see myself shelling out for a full hydro group sooner than expected, will have to see what the new 105 group has to offer in the summer.

What levers are you using those with?

What colour did you get? The Ireland supplier only has silver and it looks a bit shiny...was hoping for black.

I'm confused about the hybrid hydro element, do they require bleeding or any other maintenance?

No, it's sealed so you don't need to worry about that but I've not looked for a schematic or thought about it, it just works :)

I got black, message the seller as they probably have some coming. They only had grey when I first looked. Here is the rear squeezed into the frame.

Generally no, the only maintenance usually required are simply the cables and turning the knob to bring the pads closer when it start to wear in.

I rarely ever need to rebleed HY/RD, worse case is simply giving them a good clean, put mineral oil around the pistons, new cable and possibly housing.

SRAM apex.

Nice one.

I take back what I said about the Hy/rds, they worked pretty well for me today, shame I had to take a hacksaw to them to get them there.

Fwiw a geezer in the states is making retrofit short pull arms to replace the standard one and solve the lever throw issue. He told me $47 posted to the UK.

https://youtu.be/JoNIqoguOKs

All colours are available here by the look of it
https://www.edgesportsuk.com/store/juin-tech/road-cx.html

They are pretty good brakes, certainly far better than Spyres, at least with Campag levers. Have read about some people having issues with them though. I'd recommend compressionless outers and metal ferrules.

I believe the only maintenance required is dripping some mineral oil around the pistons/seals to prevent them sticking.

Any idea if he makes replacement arms for the Spyres?

I don't think so, do they have lever throw issues too? Maybe comment on that youtube vid.

I’ve would the levers in using the screw under the hood so they are closer to the bars - this has taken out the initial pull on the lever that didn’t do anything, and combined with tensioning the calliper barrel adjuster and the pad in adjustments has got something that works okay, but I’ll reserve full judgement until the pads have bedded in

Adjusting the reach doesn't remove initial pull that doesn't do anything, just moves the levers in for smaller hands and gives you less overall movement to play with. If there's a bit of pull that didn't do anything then you need more cable pulled through, or adjust the barrel adjuster if it's only a little.

tried all that again and again

it was only adjusting the lever reach that made it 'feel' like it should to me, must be a personal preference I suppose

Yeh, with Campag they're shite.

SRAM Rival HRD. Front lever is pulling closer and closer to the bars, no obvious signs of oil loss, pads are fairly fresh. Could this be a symptom of air bubbles working there way somewhere?

Will bleed with a bit more diligence and have a closer look for leaks.

Thinking out aloud, could you safely add a colour dye to Dot oil, would make spotting issues super easy.

Check the grub screw under the lever. They work their way out over time.

So I have got an answer to my own question. A reputable bike shop in America has recently built a bike with Shimano M8000 levers and Ulgetra flat mount calipers and it absolutely works!!

They told me I'd need straight-straight hose set up instead of straight to banjo, in case anyone is interested.

This means the Hope RX4 flat mount would work too as it's compatible with the Ulgetra calipers.

I am happy! :-)