Which Groupset?

I’ve been out of the beikgeek game for a bit so need a heads up on whether the following is a ridiculous groupset proposition for reasons unbeknown to me:

• Apex 1 shifters
  
• Wolftooth nw 40t ring on a narrow square taper B.B.
  
• Apex 1 mech
  
• XT 8000 11-40t cassette on a Shimano 10sp freehub
  
• An 11sp chain of some kind (5800 Shimano or similar)
  
  
  

Bigger cassettes and 1x aren’t the same thing though, you’ve been looking at too many gravel bikes. I’ve ran 1x on 11-25 cassettes before for flat terrain road bike

Fine if you're on flat terrain - that's why I use 1x on the TT bike. (Sucked riding back up the hill after the Welsh 25!)

But most of my other riding is lumpy and you can't get the same gear spread with 1x without throwing on a silly sized cassette. I could use 1x for the commute but then it would cripple that bike for hilly stuff and if it's a London commute then it can be done fixed/ss anyway so 1x is still pointless.

Need to gram mine still.
The hypothesis is set = more likes, let's science.

I'm liking 1x, it's not for everyone, the stock 50t will prolly get changed next year but waiting on more cassettes to come to market, those 3t ones are ££££.

You can build custom Shimano (and probably Miche and Campag) cassettes. You don't get the silly 9T and 10T options but you'd be able to get pretty specific with a custom cassette.

No rush, I'm interested in something silly with 10t. I was silly enough to go 1x, let's go full hog.

Give it enough time and I'll probably wish I spent extra on Rival22 but can always switch this stuff around :) the fun and games of self builds.

I want one of those 3T Stradas but when you start riding ultras on it - not having super low gearing is a problem. I could go for something like the Exploro which I think maintains the ability to add a FD but then it's designed for fat rubber.

Do you need the top end though on an ultra? Do you actually pedal on a downhill?

Yeah, now and then I'll top out on a fast descent but not often.

At the moment I'm running 50/34 with 11-32T but I'd like something more like 48/32 w/ 11-36T to cover steep climbs when I'm totally fucked (or injured).

My plan was to keep chainset as is and fit Wolftooth and use SRAM 11-36T cassette. I'm not sure if a 1x will give me low enough gearing, at least not without putting big jumps in the 'flat land' gears, but I've not worked it out.

https://www.tritoncycles.co.uk/components-c9/chainsets-cranks-c70/alba-m30-dm-chainset-p18177

plus

Med/long cage version of this:
https://www.bikerumor.com/2018/04/03/shimano-ultegra-rx-derailleurs-pull-shadow-rd-clutch-onto-the-road/

Next.

I've got a P2M so I'm not swapping the cranks for sub-compact stuff. I was just going to swap the rings and I already own a Wolftooth and 36T and I don't need no stinking CX derailler.

You cant get 32t in 110bcd, 34 is the lowest you can go. I think the only way to have a PM and sub-compact rings atm is Garmin Vector 3.

Wolftooth is bodge-y, you are mounting something on one of the weakest parts of the bike, IMO try and solve it with a derailleur, the only benefit of that RX mech is that it officially goes to 34t which means it will 100% go to 36t with B tension adjustment. Obv you dont need the clutch.

50/34 x 11-32T = 28.7 -> 122.7 gear inches
48 x 11-32T = 40.5 ->117.8
46 x 11-32T = 38.8 -> 112.9
46 x 11-36T = 34.5 -> 112.9
44 x 11-36T = 33.0 -> 108.0
38 x 11-36T = 28.5 -> 93.3

So to get low enough I'd need a 38 at the front and a 36T at the back and that would knock 30 GIs off my top end and give slightly worse sprocket spacing than I have now with the 11-32T.

I have 42t with 11-36 and 42x11 feels under-geared sometimes, I am only mortal

You can get 33T TA I think but I wasn't really worried about going that low. Like I said, my plan was to keep the chainset as-is and add the 36T cassette instead of the 32T. Dropping the big ring size down just keeps the chainline nice for normal riding.

The derailler hanger is replaceable - it's designed to be weak to fail so your frame doesn't. Wacker used Wolftooth w/ 36T for TABR and probably TCR so it's proven to work. Wolftooth is cheaper than a derailler. Clutch deraillers add drag. No thanks. And it's not even out yet is it?

That's the problem. To get 1x low enough you lose top end and the gear spacing is often worse.

Clutch deraillers add drag.

Then go regular med cage R8070, non clutch. Not cheaper but then again what is?! Flat whites are £3

What's the cassette capacity of the R8070 and is it compatible with other shit I already have?

The plan was a whole new bike covered in the new Ultegra but I'm running out of time for that.

The plan was a whole new bike covered in the new Ultegra

I rode mine with full R8070 today, amazing stuff! The hoods are identical to the non hydro Di2 hoods and so much more/better modulation than R785s.

Do it.

PM me your card details...

You know what'd be great for an ultra? A triple #maketriplesgreatagain

What's the cassette capacity of the R8070 and is it compatible with other shit I already have?

34t official so easily 36t, even 38t I'd say.

A triple

ok find a powermeter triple crankset

Bodge together a left-only power meter with a 4703 right crank

If you're interested in a medium cage 6870 RD I've got one spare. PM if interested.