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Yeah you did it opposite.
The Shimano way is necessary if there is very little clearance between the brake caliper and the spokes.
With the Shimano way, braking increase the tension on the spokes that will pull the dish of the wheel to the right, away from the brake caliper.
With the Sheldon lacing pattern, increased tension (braking) will pull the wheel to the left towards the caliper, and this might result in the spokes hitting the caliper. It’s very obvious while riding as you can hear a ping ping ping ping ping sound when braking.
You will most likely be fine, and if you do experience it you can rebuild later.
Simba-
Ah right. I was more concerned about the fatigue on the spokes, apparently this way they break at the elbows sooner due to the different stresses. It's not tensioned up yet so I think I'll just take it apart again and relace it. No biggie.
Thanks for the help
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With the Sheldon lacing pattern, increased tension (braking) will pull the wheel to the left towards the caliper, and this might result in the spokes hitting the caliper
But it pulls the last interleaved crossing away from the caliper, and that crossing it the one which is at about the right radius to be a problem if the clearance is tight, just as it is also the one which is close to the dérailleur cage on the drive side of the rear wheel.
frankenbike
gbj_tester
Did I lace this rear wheel up right? In terms of head/elbows in and out, pushing and pulling, etc. I can't understand any of the descriptions.
From this Shimano diagram:
it looks like I did it wrong on both sides but on the other hand it's not totally clear what the "rotating direction of wheel" means (presumably the top of the wheel rotates in that direction based on the diagram?).
I followed the Sheldon Brown instructions, surely he hasn't let me down??!?