Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Think it's agreed that the offset does not preclude you stringing it up to a symmetrical hub. Some people certainly have in the past.

DT Swiss calculator says:

front: 297.9mm, 300.4mm
rear: 299.1mm, 298.4mm

I was going to get 30×298mm on front left, rear right and 30×300mm on front right, rear left. But the 0.4mm on the right spokes is throwing me a little; should I round that up or down? If I round up I'm going to need 15×298mm, 30×300mm, 15×302mm.

In light of the postage costs I want to get it right the first time ;)

should I round that up or down?

Down. You can round the 299.1 down to 298 too. In general, you don't want to be more than 0.5mm over nominal, but you can safely be up to 1.5mm under.

So 45×298mm and 15×300mm? That's annoying that I can't get them all the same! At least DS front spokes never ever break I guess.

Thanks man

Edit: not sure what I was thinking with rounding the 299.1mm to 300mm??

Hi wheelbuilders,

I'm looking to put together a relatively light (to take advantage of it not being 700 or rimbrake) 650b wheelset, shimano dynamo front, 135mm rear, disks, and probably 32h (though is 28 viable when going 650b because of smaller diam?). Does anyone have spoke and rim recommendations?

This is also in my interests

These look nice, quite light and good value at £40 a pop.
https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/products/kinlin-tl-23-650b-27-5-mtb-touring-tubeless-compatible-rim

I'd just get API spokes (cyclebasket again) because any weight saving of buying flash spokes seems a bit moot when you're sticking a dynamo on the front.

You could buy the pair of these that I've got for £20.

I still have these that I can pull apart...

New Bontrager Duster 27.5'' TLR PV 32H Black Rims. MSRP £120.00 - Paid £40 posted
Satin matt black finish / No braking surface / tubeless compatible / Asymmetric rims / 32h / 28mm wide outside / 23mm inside

https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/303696/

PM'd, I missed these in the sale so it's hard to pass this up

@Scrabble yeah I'm aware the weight thing is a bit futile, just hoped to save some grams over my 700c set. It's looking like that will cost me more than I'm prepared to spend though

2nd dibs :)

Yep, It's tricky. There are loads of bargain mountain bike rims out there, but almost always over 500g each. You need to spend a little to get something a bit more road orientated and nearer 400g. Hard to argue when they're £10 each though.

Saving weight with spokes is a mugs game unless you're going mega weeny though.

Any reason you can't build road rims onto disc hubs?

I've just taken delivery of a cx frame I bought off ebay and it has both disc and canti mounts with 135mm rear spacing. I'll need 135mm hubs with rim brake specific rims.

Wouldn’t you just use on or the other?

Want to run cantilever but the hub spacing is 135mm. Standard road spacing is 130mm. I need disc hubs with rim brake rims.

I see. You just want disc hubs for the width

You can get non-disc 135mm hubs.

And to answer your original question there are loads of wheels with a rim brake and a disc hub, from the period of time when MTBs were switching over from rim to disc, and more recently tourers/tandems often do it as well. See for example the Surly Ogre:

So there's no reason you can't do it aside from the extra weight in the hub or rim (depending on which set of brakes you use).

If I were you I'd get disc hubs and rim brake rims; you have the option of switching to discs without rebuilding the wheel for only a small weight penalty. Or you might decide to move the wheels to a disc brake bike when you upgrade, etc.

Bingo.

Yes want to build on disc hubs as the only barrier to a disc cx bike is the fork (funny that felt made the f95x with canti and disc mounts on the frame, but only canti mounts on the fork).

It's unlikely I'll ever go disc on it as it's supposed to be a cheap build, but here I am looking at handbuilt wheels...

Forgot to mention, if you're absolutely sure you won't ever use the wheel with discs then a non-disc hub will result in a less flexy wheel due to the greater flange spacing. If flexiness is not likely to be an issue for you then I guess you can ignore it.

It's got a tapered head-tube so you could probably find a second-hand (or Chinese) disc fork for <£100

Edit: also cable discs are under-rated and not too expensive. Not as cheap as cantis though.

It is not offset! (..but has a permanent logo)

the DT swiss RR 521 rim has removable stickers but is only 23mm wide vs 24.5mm. So could be (very slightly :)) faster depending on tyres....

a non-disc hub will result in a less flexy wheel due to the greater flange spacing

The extra flange spacing, if any*, is on the NDS where there's already plenty on a disc hub. Deleting the rotor mount doesn't do anything for the DS where the actual problem lies.

*e.g. FH-M785 (disc) and FH-T780 (non-disc) have the same dimensions

Is that how it works? I thought that the wider triangle base makes a "stronger" wheel even if one side is still at a dodgy angle. Well, good to know anyway.

Is that how it works?

Yep. The weakest link is the problem.

Thanks (and to @Scrabble ). A few options to ponder on then, but we’ve narrowed them down substantially!

I built a dynamo front wheel a few months ago. Alpkit LuvMud unit with Alexrims rim and DT Swiss spokes. All seemed good but I recently noticed a clunk when braking. Assumed headset loose, no. Checked calliper tightness, ok.
Yesterday noticed when braking the whole rim jumps to the left (towards the disc) by 4 or 5 mm. clearly this is not correct.
Any thoughts on a solution?