Any question answered...

Great, not compounding was what I was after and seems logical. Unfortunately, obvs.

Different client this time!

And another question. Presumably companies may try to pay original debt but not pay the interest...

Yes and yes.

Make sure you don't wave it by accident, but it's a useful negotiating position.

If it's a simple claim you can always go for a small claims. The evidence of the original work, failure to pay at the time and then date of the settlement pretty much sews the case up in your favour - as long as there's nothing to prove you waved it.

Ianal and

Ianal and...

...can't spell waive

Bulk extract images from pdf in win10.
Is how?

Thanks - I went back and forth on that.

Did you waver?

Yes

i've got 52 tabs open on Chrome on an Android phone. Is there a way to get a list of these, presumably they have to be stored somewhere?

Facebook will have the list

The three little dots at the top > recent tabs > which ever device it is

any ultralight bottle cages (doesnt have to be carbon) on offer anywhere - i need 4!

Is there any easy way to work out by how much I can trim this mess down without compromising braking and gear changes?

1 Attachment

That front brake outer cable should be shortend to the point where it exits the adjuster, in-line with the adjuster screw. Not, as it is at present, at an angle of approximately 45°.
It's difficult to comment on the others.

This is why front brakes should be on the left lever! ;)

Yeah - I was thinking that would help make it a lot neater!

Thanks. Will start there and I guess just make sure that the others are just long enough to enable the useful range of movement in the bars.

Wow!

They all have double-bends to some extent (bend one way, then back on itself), which increases friction, guarantees paint-rub and, most importantly, looks a bastard.

You want to remove them and have the cables curving as gently as possible: the more gradual the bend, the less friction.

C-Eagle is on the money and swapping the brakes over would benefit the routing of both cables: the rear wouldn't run so tight to the frame.

I also run the left shifter to the right frame stop and vice versa: less acute bends and they don't run so tight to the frame. Cross the inners back under the down tube: I've never found they rub excessively, but if you have internal routing it might not be possible.

Layer the cables with the front brake first, followed by the rear, then the front derailleur with the rear last. Apart from the front brake it doesn't really matter which order the others follow, but you might as well impose some sense of order.

Let the released cable hang freely, then gently guide it to the appropriate cable stop: don't pull on the cable, just use one finger to apply the least force necessary. Remember to account for the depth of the stop.

Holding it in place you can now turn the bars to check their range isn't limited. In practice (with the cables routed as above), I've not found this to be a problem: about 30˚left and right is adequate. Also squeeze the calipers to the rim, to check they aren't restricted (check frame-caliper section at the rear).

Trim the outer 2 or 3cm longer than you've measured and check again with the outer actually in the stop and a ferrule fitted if appropriate. Trim 0.5cm and repeat. When you think it needs trimming just once more, stop and leave well enough alone. :)

I know you know this, but do pull the inners past the point you'll cut the outer! ;)

PS With your cable-game on, don't let the side down with your finishing tape: only noobs run it off the end of the bar wrap and onto the actual bars.

PPS If you use self-amalgamating silicone tape instead of electrical, then Tstr might not give you a stern look...

Excellent tips. Thanks! Yeah, the tape is getting redone too. I’m going to take a day off soon to spend entirely on stripping, cleaning and servicing. Will take my time over it all to get it right. What’s decent tape these days? The soft touch stuff doesn’t stand up to sweat very well.

I've seen no need to stray from Fizik, "classic"I think: the perforated one.

But tape is cheap enough that you can afford to experiment.

I like fizik classic too, the 3mm stuff.

That has been described better than I ever could - despite it being exactly the way I (intuitively) crop my cable outers.

I reckon you could describe it better in Polish, so that makes us quits!

I appreciate that this is a Holy War issue, and so there is actually no rational optimum solution (though obviously you are Bad and Wrong and the front brake should always be on the right...), but in general changing what you're used to just to improve cable routing is a Bad Idea; if you forget you either lock the rear trying to do an emergency stop, or send yourself over the bars/lose the front when trying to scrub off speed.

I'd be f*cked if I was asked to describe that in Polish .