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• #2
First off, learning to braze stuff. I've been wanting to functionalise my big block for a while. It's had a hard life since I bought it two years ago and it was time for a strip down and full service anyway so why not add the second set of bottle bosses, rack and mudguard eyelets I've just received from ceeway.
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• #4
The smell was awful. Should have removed more paint before firing up. Anyway it wasn't as difficult as I'd imagined. Clean surfaces, a bit of flux paste (some powder you mix with water and brush on) and a bottle of mapp gas with a fine tip. These are brazed with silver which melts at a lower temperature than brass and is easier for a noob/idiot like me to start with. I did a practice run on a scrap tube before doing these.
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• #5
Cleaned up a bit.
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• #6
So satisfying
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• #7
Wow looks brill. More pics please!
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• #8
Subbed. Loving the next level tinkering and builds that are currently de rigeur.
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• #9
Trying to figure out where to put the mudguard eyelets. I realise many of you probably think I shouldn't do this but it's wet here and I'm old and uncool and don't care 😉
Nevertheless, it obviously looks crap and the dropouts are pretty distinctive on these frames so would be nice to screw them up as little as possible.
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• #10
Looks really good in the gap to me.
Will you use silver for this as well? -
• #11
This is sick, super in to the idea of modifying a frame to be exactly what you need it to be. Would also like to learn how to braze too, good work.
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• #12
Thanks. Yes, silver for all the stuff. I'm thinking that since it melts way before brass I won't manage to damage any of the frame's structural brazing.
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• #13
Subbed! How much is the postage from ceeway to Sweden?
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• #14
I ordered some small parts + a ~1m practice tube and postage was £9.50 to Sweden. Ordering is very complicated by today's standards, you email a list of parts and he'll reply with an invoice, if you accept he'll send you a link to a payment page. But no issues and quick delivery once everything went through. Also answers stupid questions politely 👍
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• #15
put them on the inside side of chain stays.
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• #16
Great work. Start chopping bits off now!
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• #17
Which bits? I do have one of these:
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• #18
My choice would be halfway between your first and second positions, but use a round file to file halfway into the dropout so it's semi sunk in. Braze in a slight fillet on each side and it'll look like it was there from the factory.
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• #19
Also bear (bare) in mind that the further up from the axle the longer the guard stays have to be. PDW for example come with stupidly short stays. Also, if you are planning on using a rack, check it wont foul.
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• #20
Everything should have loads of bosses and eyes everywhere.
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• #21
Orwellian
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• #22
lols
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• #24
So good.
Stick canti studs on it. My least favourite feature of mine was the long drop brake.
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• #25
slap them in the gap
This. Tried a bunch of positions but decided to file the eyelets a bit so they sit in the top corner above the bridge outline. Frame's upside down in the pic for gravitational reasons, black and white for contrast. Now to remove paint etc before brazing.
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Inspired by many other fine forumengers, I've decided to document all my tinkering in one thread rather than do separate ones. The title refers to one of my many classy box office hits although that was a long time ago.