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Personally I'd do either zooms or primes (assuming you only have one body) otherwise it would be constant mindfuck - do I swap zoom-to-prime or not - which will make you miss shots.
I'd ideally use a proper f2.8 / 80-200mm, and have some sort of second camera / body with something like a 35mm as well and just go with that.
My experience with weddings is that you'd rather actually get that shot, that moment, even if the focal length wasn't perfect and you actually will crop heavily from a wide angle shot or you could have made it a tad better with the fast prime at 1.8 but didn't as you used the zoom at 3.5 - fuck it, seriously, the people won't care, they're not photo nerds.I just made a book for people whose wedding ceremony I shot last year and I used a lot of b&w film shots in it that I basically did just for fun / for myself with a point and shoot on HP5 - even used one of these for the cover of the book actually, and they fucking love it.
salad-
But why? I understand if you're only doing one type of photography, but different things need different lenses?
For me personally,
object is mostly static - prime
object is moving or I can't control the distance between me and object- zoomUnless you've got a bag full of 30 primes, you're going to need a zoom at some point
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I have me shooting a Nikon Df with Tamron 24-70 2.8 and my wife shooting candid shots on the Olympus OM-D E-M1 and a wide ish prime (14 or 20mm maybe)
I was thinking about hiring another full frame Nikon for a 50mm prime and swap between the two.
Any recommendations on where to hire a nice FX Nikon in Edinburgh or Dundee?
NurseHolliday
mi7rennie
I've got a Tamron 24-70 2.8 G2 coming from eBay. Supposedly 4 stops vibration reduction. Everything else will be done with primes.