TT success 2018 ᕦ(òᴥó)ᕥ (fixed | geared | human)

Yeah, I was hovering round your wanted thread like

Headsets man. Obtaining and fitting one for the lo pro (Tange Falcon) is gonna be north of £60, but that includes potentially cutting more thread onto the steerer.

Also, can someone please tell me which brake combo to use? I'm thinking about very important stuff like who the new chief executive of the RFL will be - I can't be making low-level tactical decisions at this point.

i tried planking in front of my kids. it turned out that I looked like a very comfortable bench, but one that sagged in the middle after less than 10 seconds of combined 10 years of weight.

i try to do my planks in private now - in other words I do none.

All the road cranks I could use on the Dolan are either 110 BCD or require extensive surgery (a topic for another thread). Anyone have some SRAM Rival cranks in 130 BCD they want to swap for my 110?

Love it! Subbed 😀
I am tempted to join in the training regime as well!

I'm terms of training, I've found it's all about rides in the evenings when the kids are asleep. Easier to get the misses on side and if you leave at 7 for a 3 hour ride you can still be in bed by 11. Much nicer when the clocks change, but the roads are quiet when it's dark.

That's a really good tip, thanks.

Where I live, you need to ride for 30 mins to get to lanes, but I could do suburban hill repeats!

So I'm respacing my fixed rear axles to achieve a 46mm chainline. This is the array of locknuts and spacers I have (this is the freewheel side, but the other side is the same). From inside to outside they measure 5mm, 2mm, 4mm.

Because it's a cartridge bearing wheel, do I need two locknuts on each side? Can I just moved one of the 4mm ones across? Have missed something glaringly obvious?

1 Attachment

Actually, the 4mm one is the serrated bit, so I'll need to go from (left to right looking down at the installed wheel)

[Track nut][dropout][4mm][2mm][5mm][huuuuuuuuuuub][5mm][2mm][4mm][dropout][track nut]

(11mm each side between bearing and dropout)

to

[Track nut][dropout][4mm][2mm][1mm][huuuuuuuuuuub][5mm][5mm][1mm][4mm][dropout][track nut]

(7 and 15mm each side respectively between bearing and dropout)

Necessitating the purchase (or location) of two 1mm M10 spacers...

Unless I've got this completely arse about face.

Scroll down for axle spacers: http://www.velosolo.co.uk/shophub.html

Cheers - but seems a bit much for some 1mm washers?

So am I right in thinking the cartridge bearings don't actually need any screw-on parts (the locknuts above) to hold them in?

pack of 10 m10 washers from screwfix for 69p?
weight-weenie what?

The nuts aren't to hold the bearings in place, but to prevent them being overloaded when you secure the wheel in the frame: without them too much lateral force could be applied to the bearing.

Ah that makes sense. I've dismantled an old Shimano hub to liberate some nuts and spacers. Let's see what quick maths I can do to put together a solution.

Fit any spacers between the two nuts, then tighten them against each other: it might take a couple of goes to get the preload on the bearings right.

You have cone spanners, right?

Yep, cone spanners I've got.

The main problem is that the two locknuts are 5mm and 4mm, and I only need 7mm of total material between bearing and dropout on the right-hand side, meaning I'm having to be creative.

Any two nuts will do, they don't need to be "hub specific".

I've got spares if you get stuck.

Nice one, ta. I'm getting there!

Assuming DPD have indeed lost my Zipp 310 front, I've gone and got a lovely new 650c front wheel, courtesy of @Si46 - Wolber Profil 20 on a Mavic 520 hub. They make a nice pair - apologies for the terrible pics.

For the Donal, I've also got a 130 BCD set of SRAM Rival now thanks to a swap with Hovis, and will double check its chainline on the bike before re-spacing the rear wheel. Should have a chainring on the way, too. Road cranksets with old-school 3/32" chainrings for fixed/single speed should be the new thing.

While the tub is stretching on my 650c wheel, I'm thinking about clinchers for the Donald.

eBay has lots of second-hand GP4000s. How important is tyre width relative to rim? I'm guessing not very, in the grand scheme of things? Basically, I'm not sure which tyres are the right balance between cost and performance gains.

Depends on your perspective. On a Hed3, width down to the mm is important. GP4k are fast. Supersonics are faster.

Cheers - I just checked the tyre that's on the back wheel now - Vittoria Diamante Pro Tech.

According to this review (although they're reviewing the mkII) it's decent enough (assumed it was something cheap and crap) so I'll keep it for now and look for an OK 2nd-hand front...

Put the Rival cranks on the Dolan to check chainline, and have now re-spaced the rear fixed wheel to 46mm with little drama, save for the fact that the axle's shifted so one track nut doesn't have enough thread to engage. It will have to go on backwards (i.e. flange-outwards) until I find a lower-profile one...

Not very aero

Oh, cartridge bearing! Sorry, I completely forgot about that. A nut without a captive washer will get you there.

As long as you're not rolling on Marathon +, I wouldn't worry about tyres: you've got bigger potatoes to peel, ie position and pacing.

Nice one Scilly, I'll swing up to Clerkenwell Fasteners this week if I can. It's the fine pitch I'll have to remember!