Custom Paint - Workshop specials.

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  • A Eunichorn?

  • Really like this and thought it was mine for a second! then I realised I only ordered the frameset...it does makes me reconsider my choice of colours though!!

  • I want to get into painting bike frames as i have a lot of frames doing nothing in the loft and getting a shed built to house some of my vintage parts and frames and could paint frames there too.

    Would the coverage from a airbrush be suitable for painting a whole frame?

    Thinking of getting something like this with a 0.5 nozzle.
    https://airbrushes.com/product_info.php?cPath=400_403_1_9_47&products_id=13

    And for primer i would just use a spraycan.

  • You'll get there eventually with an airbrush if you have sufficient patience, but it'll take forever to do. I use a Sealey HVLP736 touch-up gun for my bike painting, which I reckon is about the right size for the job.

  • Yer i guess it may be best to get a touch-up gun instead im guessing i would need a compressor that can handle a higher cfm too. Will have a look around want something that is not going to blow my eardrums like my grandparents old one.

  • nice work @privatepatterson

  • Huge fan of Saffron, Stinner, Quirk and Mercredi paintjobs, my insta can't have enough of it...only downside is that it makes your current bikes paintjob so boring....

  • Like @danstuff said; the airbrush will get you there but it will take a long time.

    The Sealey gun he mentioned is a good entry-level tool.
    These are also pretty good - https://cosmicrons.com/products/1-0mm-hvlp-paint-spray-gun
    It was my first gun, now I use it for base occasionally or lending it to people.

    Painters can't all agree on the 'best' gun but the higher end offerings from SATA/DeVilbiss/Iwata are the industry standard. The SATA minijet is our go-to gun at Cole Coatings Workshop. We use slightly cheaper DeVilbiss SRi guns for primer.

    An idea of how we use different nozzle sizes... very loosely...
    0.2/0.35 - Localised airbrush fine detail
    0.5 - Larger airbrush block colour
    0.5 - Blends/fades
    0.8 - Base
    1.0 - Base/Primer
    1.0 - Clear
    1.2 - Clear
    There are a few guns above 2.0 that we use for flake and other specialist finishes.

    If you're going to do more than one bike, it's worth investing in three dedicated guns... primer/base/clear. In order, it should be cheap/more expensive/best gun.

    I'd urge you away from rattle cans for three reasons.
    Firstly, they're not as effective as custom mixed products; sure, they work, but your finishes will be more robust if you use 'proper' product.
    Secondly, it will be more gun practice for you, without consequence. If you make a mistake in primer, it's relatively easy to remedy.
    Third, if you're going to use an epoxy primer (which we do in the most part because of it's excellent adhesion properties), the viscosity and application technique is quite similar to spraying clearcoat which is arguably the most difficult part of the process so any extra practice here is useful.

    You can buy a hundred quid's worth of compressor from Screwfix and that'll do the job well enough.

    If you're interested in getting to grips with the tools and processes, and more importantly, the prep stages, we offer courses at our workshop throughout the year. There's a 10% forum discount too. https://colecoatingsworkshop.com/courses/

    Hope that's all useful information.

  • thank you.

    that was a complicated one for sure.
    that pattern is seamless, all of the angles match... it was a headscratcher to say the least.
    probably the project that has had the most paint time of any we've finished to date.
    It's based on this if that's useful... http://www.tate.org.uk/art/images/work/T/T06/T06859_10.jpg

  • Same. The best work we've done is for those brands without doubt.

    We love working for those guys.
    The substrates are high-end, well-made and as builders, they understand lots more of the process so the finishes are often much more collaborative.

  • that pattern is seamless, all of the angles match...

    Does that mean that the rider can only ever ride it in a straight line? /s

  • I can sympathize...I opened that tate picture and it gave me instant headache...
    amazing job though.

  • Wow cheers for the great reply!

    I am definitely interested in the workshop and will be in contact after i have messed up a few of my old steel frames attempting it myself :)

  • Any examples of ral 6027 the bianchi celeste or near as ? Asking for a friend .

  • I reckon every painter on the forum has painted something in a 'celeste' colour and has half a tin still on their shelf!

    I think there's one on our Instagram feed near the beginning...

    Looking for an accurate colour reference on a screen is an exercise in futility... it won't look like that in real life. Won't be the same on your computer screen, on your phone screen, in sunlight, in artificial light etc - This is the reason printers use Pantone books and such... and why good painters have paint chips or pre-painted speedshapes to show customers.

    If you want to know what RAL 6027 looks like IRL, your best bet is to buy a a RAL book.
    This is a cheap one with multiple colours to a page... https://www.amazon.co.uk/RAL-RALK7-Classic-K7-Icons/dp/B000TZFQXC

    If you just want a bike in 'celeste' just tell your painter and they'll do it for you using the best interpretation they know. Bianchi hasn't even used the same colour consistently anyway!

  • Work as a printer so i have pantone books coming out my ears daylight tubes colour matching roland and ricohs ! She just wants celeste . Should of bought her a bianchi from a shop but then you would be out of a job . It will be in in feb .

    Ta

  • Then you know the struggles!!!!

    If it's a single colour you're after, I'd nudge you towards a powdercoat.

  • Bit of pink as well ! She did like the caribbean sea though

  • Apart from powder coat, what would the experts recommend for a resilient paint job?

  • Hammerite?

  • Paint itself isn't strong really.

    Good clearcoat, applied well is the best way to defend your colours/graphics.
    Clearcoats are on a spectrum... at one end, they are flexible but prone to scratching and at the other, they're more resilient to scratching but can chip.

    Painters are not agreed on the best clearcoat products.

    We import ours from America where the rules about the ingredients are a little different and we think we have one of the toughest available.

    Most painters will clear multiple times but, ask you painter for an additional 'flowcoat'.
    This means that once your bike has clearcoat, it is wet sanded and a further clearcoat is added over the top. It'll be tougher, and shinier when polished.

    I wouldn't recommend hammerite for a resilient finish on a bike per se.

    Strictly speaking, it's not JUST the paint product that needs to be robust... more importantly, the bonds between the frame and the primer need to be excellent and then the bonds between the primer and the paint product need to be strong too. What use is a good paint product if you can scrape it off with your keys?

    The strongest finish we can offer at Cole Coatings Workshop is something we affectionately refer to as 'rubble'. It's a U-Pol product designed to line the flat beds of trucks... specifically made to have tools thrown at it and defend against solvent and chemical spills.

    It does look a bit like Hammerite but it's a far superior as a product. We apply it over an epoxy primer (as opposed to a more common etch type primer for example), this is a high build product, quite robust in itself. The 'rubble' product can be tinted to any standard RAL colour and if performed inside a tight curing window, we can also add additional graphics over it.

    I have it on my own personal bike... https://www.instagram.com/p/BWCmuAlFKPD/?taken-by=private_patterson

    There's a Quirk MTB leaving the shop shortly that has this finish in a deep blue, with pink graphics.

    The product is pretty savage in terms of being messy to apply. It ruins our booth filters and you have to fully strip and rebuild your guns afterwards (as opposed to simply running thinners through them). With that in mind, what we try and do is pool a handful of these projects and hit them in one go in order to save on the cost of cleanup.

    This may be too short notice for you BUT, we are having a rubble day this week so if you were ready, you could potentially hop on the back of the job and pay a cheaper fee. Drop me an email via the Cole Coatings Workshop site?

  • Comprehensive response as ever.

    On a separate note, I’ve got a CAAD7 Saeco. The dark red candy clear over brushed aluminium. I’m hopefully picking up a CAAD5 track frame in the next few weeks/months. How possible would it be to strip, brush and copy the Saeco candy clear coat over the raw metal on it?

  • Here's that Quirk I mentioned.
    Not Hammerite but similar in appearance.
    https://www.instagram.com/p/BdA6RuHFGlN/?taken-by=colecoatingsworkshop

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Custom Paint - Workshop specials.

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