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I've found OSM-based http://www.openfietsmap.nl maps good enough for everything. Free and Garmin-ready. Show footpaths, stiles, gates etc.
You don't say you need it, but I never have any success routing on the device.
Edit: Not sure if contours are included... have a feeling for the UK I needed a separate contour map from somewhere else, whereas for the Alps it was already included.
So I'm slowly figuring out the whole gps thing and I've mastered the basics on my Etrex 30 in that I have downloaded an open street maps UK map and I know how to create a track on ridewithgps and use it to navigate on roads.
I also want to be able to use it for hiking and offroad cycling with more detailed map information. I can't find these maps open sourced as easily - Is the easiest option to subscribe to birdseye, or is there another option?