Sell my Crabon, build a steel road bike.

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  • Thanks, but I'm going to build what I have and ride it to see what I want to change. The proof is in the pudding.

  • If you want to eventually change the stem, you’re going to have to remove the tape, cables and shifters though...

  • I don't want to change the stem.

    I like the stem.

    It's other people who don't like it.

  • The same people who didn’t like the blue tyres.

  • You must have enough rear brake outer left to redo that tight rear cabling.

  • I have enough outer but not enough inner. I snipped it after adjusting the caliper. Doh.

  • Ah. That’s the last thing I do...such good lessons!

  • Yep leave inners long until the bar tape is on and the bike is riding, cut them with 5 or 6 inches left and ride it round the block then snip short when it’s definitely perfect.

  • Your bike, your preferences. Stick with it I say .

    And I've never understood why the Deda Murex divides opinion. It generally suits a neo retro build and I'd imagine it's stiffer than a Nitto due to the larger clamping area.

  • Stiffness is not a concern here.

  • my left lever has ben about 0.5cm too low for the best part of 2000km, I checked before taping but my eyeballs were not well calibrated that day, I cant be bothered to change it even though I can feel it when riding.

  • Trip to BC and @hillbilly sorted out the left shifter for me. Thanks Jim.

    Now I've re-cabled the rear brake. Installed the chain. Indexed the gears.

    Nearly all good to go.

    Also bought some black tape.


    1 Attachment

    • IMG_20171212_130826.jpg
  • Problem. We measured the seat tube. 27.0mm NOT 26.8.

    The seatpost I have arriving tomorrow is a 26.8.

    Coke can shim?

  • Yes, one full wrap should do it as a coke can is 0.1mm thick.

    Nice build! The Murex isn't that bad actually, I take that back. Maybe acetone away the logos...

  • Coke can shim?

    Just get a seat post in the correct size.

  • Can you stop with the helpful comments?

    Thanks.

  • I will not.

  • Have only just caught up with this thread.
    I can see you repeating many errors I have made previously, premature taping, cutting cables too short etc.

    I see others have mentioned clamping by top tube, and thank fuck those blue tyres have gone.

  • Looking good! Except for the wheels... are there any real advantages of that spoke pattern that would justify the looks? @mdcc_tester

  • I have a Nitto S65 in 27.0mm

    shows fair signs of use so would swap for beers

  • are there any real advantages of that spoke pattern that would justify the looks?

    Only on the rear, where 16 drive side spokes give the strength of a 32 spoke wheel, and 8 nds are enough to provide balance. They've stopped doing the fronts like that because even Campag eventually realised it was dumb.

  • I have always felt that part of the point of the G3 spoke pattern was the aesthetics. Which are marmite, for sure.

    But you all know, by now, that my taste is questionable.

  • @fidbod, I may well take you up on that. Whereabouts are you?

  • You should take fidbod's post, S65 are tasty. @fidbod I'd be interested otherwise depending on length :angel:

    edit: been mashton'd :)

  • Not worth taping terrible transition. Would think Dov is right and this is the bar you might be able to ride in the drops and on the hoods.

    https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/HBNIM106/nitto-m106nas-road-handlebar

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Sell my Crabon, build a steel road bike.

Posted by Avatar for mashton @mashton

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