Cyfac Piste Max

Krystal you say? Might have one or two knocking about.. think they're maybe too long for you tho sig.

Otherwise I'm a fan of TIG steel stems. Eclypse, pro chrome etc.

Not sure about the look ergostem on this build, might look good, might be a bit distracting. Won't know until you try it!

Interested to hear what length they are! I found a reasonably priced 110mm 3ttt pro titanium, but the quill was shortened which may not be ideal if I want to raise it a bit (been thinking about getting a sugino pope hat if the front end feels too low). I'm also eyeing up a look ergostem but it's matte black and I'd rather have a silver finishing kit. It would be a functional and slave option but might be a bit distracting. Judging by the test ride with the parts bin build, I want to get my position a little bit further forward with a zero setback seatpost. I found two ideal van nicholas ti seatposts with zero setback on marktplaats but one sold right before I contacted the seller and the seller of the other one doesn't want to post it abroad and I moved back to Germany 2 months ago :/ With the zero setback seatpost and the compact bars I guess I could go with a 120mm stem max.

I'm based in Amsterdam and wouldn't mind sending it on if you like?

That would be sweeeet :) will pm you.

Just skimmed through this - nice frame! (I like the green)

Just wondering what compact bars you're planning on matching with the pro ti stem as my HWY1 wouldn't fit mine... I may sell the stem, 110mm in decent condition if yours doen't go as high as you need it to...

Cheers,
Matt

Cheers! When it comes to the colour, opinions differ sharply. I didn't like it initially but it's starting to grow on me. In any case, it probably won't get painted anymore this year since my friend who'll paint it is busy with his thesis. The plan still stands though, imo it deserves a more flamboyant paintjob. I'll use deda piegas and polish the sleeve (no euph). I tried them with a 3ttt pro chrome stem and it worked with the penny trick. I'm definitely interested if you're planning to part with it, especially if @MCamb 's itm stems are too long.

I came across this stem, wrong color for you, but clean design. Going to try to remove the decals

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Thanks, I appreciate it but I want to use a quill stem. Forks are too short for ahead, don't want to use an adapter and I prefer the look of quill stems :)
It might be nice for @Gaston 's new max forks though, if he's interested in it.

I have pope head back in nl that I could get my mum to send you if needed!

Thanks, I'll keep it in mind and might take you up on it but this won't be ridable for a while so I don't know yet whether I'll need it. There's also a chance that I'll be moving to Berlin by the end of the year so by the time the bike is rideable I might be able to pick it up from you personally ;) BTW: thanks everyone for all the help and offers, I really appreciate it!

Found a 19t EAI cog on here and @Kgrev is getting the zero set back van nicholas seatpost for me. Thanks a lot!

Does anybody know whether there's a specific name for this type of chainring bolt? I'll be needing some to mount a chainring to the starfish cranks, it's a bit complicated, I tried to explain it here: https://www.lfgss.com/comments/13873077/
What makes things even more complicated is the fact that the thicker part cannot be longer than 4mm, not sure whether that's the case for the shimano ones.

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ha! good choice... although the scenery where you live looks not too bad also aye?!
the scenery here is mostly the people, and thats exactly why i live here.

Does anybody know whether there's a specific name for this type of chainring bolt?

Try the road type bolt

Make sure they're long enough to reach the thread otherwise it'll fvcked the thread

Something like this
https://m.ebay.com/itm/5-Pairs-Crankset-Bolts-Crank-Bolts-Bike-Chainring-Bolts-Crank-Screws-Nuts-/332155658458?_mwBanner=1

Thanks for the input, I already noticed that normal double chainring bolts hardly engage with the threads with the thick chainring. The problem is that the chainring was designed for "normal" cranksets so the recess for the bolt heads faces away from the bottom bracket. Since they're mounted from the rear side on the starfish, that means that there's no recess for the bolt heads to keep the chainring in place which is why I need those special bolts with a thicker unthreaded section to keep it from slipping. The other option would be to flip the chainring but then the chain wouldn't sit flush.

Slight change of plans. Found a pair of mavic bullhorns and extensions on here and bought them from @mjm cause they're mavic and a perfect match for the gunmental grey rims:

The ergostem will be a better match for these but I might still get a TI stem for an alternative drop bar cockpit.

I received the EAI cog today and tried to thread it onto the mavic hubs. First half or 2/3rds thread on smooth but then there'a considerable resistance. I don't want to risk threading the hubs so i didn't force it on with the chainwhip. I tried it with a cheapo generic cog and it went on fairly smooth all the way. Anyone experienced something like that with EAI cogs? The other problem seems to be that the threaded section is a bit longer on the EAI cog than on other cogs so the lockring wouldn't be fully on. Any recommendations for other quality 19t 1/8 cogs, preferably with a slimmer threaded section? What about Halo cogs?
p.s. if anybody has sth in their parts bin that would tick the boxes, please let me know!
pps: hubs are mavic 520s and according to @Gaston and the internet, they're iso compatible.

I've heard before that eai cogs have a "tight" fit and I've personally had some issues with one of their deluxe cogs before on some vintage campagnolo record hubs, which were iso as well.. so ended up selling it with an on one hub that fitted nicely.

You shouldn't need elbow grease, it's a bit like headset threads: you can put an iso headset on ita threaded forks and vice-versa but back and forth is strongly advised against.

Now I'm a bit curious, I'll check on my 520 hubs what kind of cog threads on..

I remember having a similar issue and reading this on the subject: http://www.bikeforums.net/track-cycling-velodrome-racing-training-area/159960-track-cog-thread-pitch.html
Posts #4 and #8 might be explaining the situation you are facing, ie. different standard sprockets could have been used on your hubs before, which could have worn down the thread a bit. I think this is also what ^ might be alluding to?
In the end I simply used a chain whip and everything was fine, however my hubs were only cheap Joytecs...

I have a box with plenty of cogs an I do not realy know what you have to do Sig
but most of the time I only have isue with Fr tread or Iso
it can be a Fr tread for the oldest 520's...
Cheers

I've read of people having problems with anodized or plated cogs as the extra coating can make the threads tight enough to strip the hub, raw steel like Dura Ace or Phil cogs will not have this problem. It could be that your hubs have slightly worn threads on the first part and that this makes a difference, or someone used them with a freewheel? I'd try a DA cog anyway, good quality and you know it will work!

Only problem with DA cogs is that they only go up to 16t? Or can they be found with more teeth?

@mcamb I would have gotten a DA cog but the starfish won't take anything smaller than 50t and 50/16 is too high a gear for me, I prefer sub 3. gear ratios. Also, the EAI cog in question is the non-plated steel deluxe version which I thought was pretty similar to the DA cogs.

I also stumbled upon this thread and it seems likely that this was the case. Unfortunately I don't know what kind of cog threading was on there before.