Freddie Grubb Galibier - Fixed Restoration

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  • With a tape measure?

    Srlsy though - a vernier gauge is useful for old beiks.

  • you need TA cups for them

    As long as the bearings are the right size, and the threading is correct, it shouldnt matter. I use no-name cups.

  • 1977 was a fine year indeed! It'll be having a midlife crisis this year turning 40. Looks lovely. Shame the company has been basterdised. Currently pumping out some Foffa style shit.
    http://www.freddiegrubb.com
    Get yer self over to the vintage thread, get it built up quickly, and come on the next vintage ride at the end of October. Look forward to seeing what you do with this.

  • Extra points if you build it up and actually ride it up the Galibier

  • Shame the company has been basterdised

    Grubb disappeared as a company in the early 60s - the marque was taken over by Holdsworth, then planet x, these new foffas

    FHGrubb would still be turning in his grave though

  • @Mashton: sure. Basically, if you can't be arsed with cottered cranks, TW is recommending some TA Pro Vis cranks (they are like the Stronglight 49D pattern, so look ok on old bikes). I'm saying just get Campagnolo Nuovo Record pattern (Campy rare, lots of decent copies old and new around).

    I guess you'll have the same with wheels: just how vintagey do you want this? I'd get stuff that's cheap & new that looks right ish.

  • Stronglight 49D

    Can't go wrong with a pair of 49Ds

    (Except for the whole axle finding thing)

    No cranks at all is still better than cottered though...

  • Right I am getting myself in a right old tangle thinking about all this.

    First thing to say is that, at this point, I just want to to get a rideable fixed build going so I am not too constrained by having to find "correct vintage" parts.

    Also, I have a modern, fixed, wheelset that I intend to use to begin with.

    Should the next step be figuring out BB or chainset? The former seems constrained by my BB shell and, partially, the cups I already have.

    If I measure up the BB shell will it tell me if there is a one stop shop BB and chainset option available to me? Presumably I need to know the shell diameter and thread pitch? Anything else?

    Post number 2 on this thread is already starting to haunt me.

  • Sticking to something that I am fairly confident about, I have ordered a Strongly A9 classic headset. The one I took off was in terrible shape.

  • I'm going to keep the original bars, I think, which are shaped quite like midge bars.

    Will either be brown or purple taped.

    The vintage in me says brown, the colourful in me says purple.

    Saddle will be a brown charge spoon. I love charge spoons as they fit my bum really well and are not spendy. The brown one looks sufficiently classic, IMO.

  • http://www.hilarystone.com/cranksets.html

    I think these are the modern campy copies Skülly means. Cup & cone BBs can be a headache if you haven't worked on them before and, more importantly, you don't have the correct axle. If you just want to get this rolling in faux vintage mode, get a modern cartridge square taper BB for starters and get educated on proper old stuff while wearing through that.

    Love the frame btw

  • That is really useful, ta!

    Yes, I'm going to get it rolling in faux vintage mode to begin with.

    So, I think my steps now are:

    • Measure BB shell.
    • Get square taper cartridge BB to fit
    • Grab that crank set

    Then the only tricky but is removing the fixed cup currently in the BB shell.

    Also, I am worried that none if the above list includes "do finicky measuring and faffing to ensure chain line works." What am I missing there?

  • http://www.velosolo.co.uk/shopcrank.html

    Requires 110mm bottom bracket with JIS (Shimano type) taper. See bottom brackets for more and FAQ for advice on different BB tapers.

    Also: https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/130300/

  • Removing the fixed BB cup can be a ballache. If you have access to a vice I've found the method of clamping the cup in the vice and using the frame itself for leverage to be useful.

  • I should really get some work done instead :-)

  • Yep, @BRM has offered me use of a vice, so that's possible.

    This all feels a lot clearer now, thanks @russmeyer. Looking like I could buy an Android crank and chainring from Hilary Stone and a 110mm Shimano UN55 BB and be nearly good to go.

    Am I right in thinking that 68mm BB is English thread and 70mm means Italian?

  • I just remembered that the fixed wheelset I have spare to go on this bike has semi deep, aero, black rims.

    They'll do to get it rolling, but will look very silly.

    A good excuse to learn how to build wheels in the near future.

  • Amirite?

    You are.

    will look very silly

    it will

    :-)

  • Well, if it's going to look silly for now then I'm going to go for the purple bar tape.

  • Kill all the puppies.

  • I've just measure the BB shell width at 66mm.

    Which seems very unlikely, but that is what the ruler tells me.

    WTF?


    1 Attachment

    • IMG_20170901_105317.jpg
  • Someone got a bit carried away facing?

  • Maybe.

    So I just add a couple of 1mm BB spacers to the shopping list, I think?

    I presume that with the cup and cone BB it made no odds as they could just tighten a bit more. With a cartridge one I'll need spacers. Sounds fair?

  • With wheels on.

    No tyre on the rear so the clearances look huge right now.


    1 Attachment

    • 15042603652123639407400426052872.jpg
  • The deep wheels do indeed look mighty silly.

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Freddie Grubb Galibier - Fixed Restoration

Posted by Avatar for mashton @mashton

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